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|USA, California, Bishop Area, Bear Creek Spire||
A classic back country trad route near Mammoth Mountain ski area. A GPS can help the scenic four hours hike from the parking. There is quite a few possible variations to the approach. If you end up doing some of the approach at night, the GPS can be very useful.
Take highway 395 heading north of the city of Bishop for about 24.0 sm to a few buildings and a restaurant called "Tom's Place" at N 37o 33' 49.3'' - W 119o 40' 55.4'' CCAB00 . Turn left and head south on Rock Creek Road all the way to the end of the road to Mosquito Flat at N 37o 26' 7.6'' - W 118o 44' 48.1'' CCAB01 , the altitude is 10300 feet . Take the trail heading south towards Morgan Pass. At a fork at N 37o 25' 44.9'' - W 118o 45' 3.5'' CCAB02 stay left towards Morgan Pass. After crossing a stream leave the large sandy trail at N 37o 23' 33.2'' - W 118o 45' 16.4'' CCAB03 . Keep following the stream on a faint level trail that goes by a lake, leave all trails and start climbing a steep rock field at N 37o 23' 21.6'' - W 118o 45' 23.6'' CCAB04 . Walk on large rocks to an unremarkable point at N 37o 23' 19.4'' - W 118o 45' 23.5'' CCAB05 . Keep on walking on large rocks by an other unremarkable point at N 37o 23' 14.1'' - W 118o 45' 22.5'' CCAB06 . Walk by a lake at N 37o 22' 52.2'' - W 118o 45' 41.6'' CCAB07 . Pass a saddle at N 37o 22' 57.2'' - W 118o 45' 33.5'' CCAB08 . Walk to the south end of Dade lake at N 37o 22' 44.0'' - W 118o 45' 50.2'' CCAB09 . The north side of the lake is the last good place for a tent. Climb an other steep 1000 feet to the start of the Bear Creek Spire North Arete route (5.8) at N 37o 22' 17.0'' - W 118o 46' 1.0'' CCAB10 . An ice axe can be useful to go up the steep snow at the base. The first pitch of the route starts on slabs and continues in a crack left of an huge and obvious left facing corner. The summit is at 13713 feet .
|USA, California, Bishop Area, Bear Crag||
A great band of steep volcanic rock near Mammoth Mountain ski area. Steep sport routes 5.11 and harder. A GPS will make the 30 minutes hike from the parking easy.
Take highway 395 north of Bishop to highway 203 west towards the town of Mammoth Lakes. Stay on 203 all the way up to Minaret Summit and down to "Rainbow Falls Trailhead Parking" at N 37o 36' 51.4'' - W 119o 4' 21.5'' CCA001 . Head south on a main trail to a unremarkable point along the trail at N 37o 36' 29.5'' - W 119o 4' 41.3'' CCA002 . From that unremarkable point head south-east on a faint path for a short distance to a wide gravel trail at N 37o 36' 26.5'' - W 119o 4' 39.9'' CCA003 . On this gravel trail head south-west to a point 100 feet pass a creek at N 37o 36' 12.2'' - W 119o 4' 44.5'' CCA004 . From that point 100 feet pass a creek a small climbers path heads south-west and leads to the crag at N 37o 35' 42.4'' - W 119o 4' 44.9'' CCA005 .
The crag is 80 feet lower then the parking. The altitude is around 7700 feet . Note that road 203 closes at 7:10 am in the summer.
|USA, California, Bishop Area, Clark Canyon||
Short nice, mainly moderate sport climbs on volcanic tuff. A GPS will be very helpful to find the parking.
From the exit for the town of Mammoth lakes on highway 395 drive 6.9 sm north bound pass a rest stop to N 37o 44' 8.0'' - W 118o 58' 13.3'' CCA006 and make a right (heading NE true) on Owens River Road (a good paved road number 2S07). Drive 1.8 sm to N 37o 44' 51.8'' - W 118o 56' 20.2'' CCA007 and make a left (Big Spring campground entrance). After a few meters make a right towards Alper Canyon on road 2SO4 (that road will soon turns to gravel). Drive 2.0 sm to N 37o 46' 24.9'' - W 118o 56' 46.5'' CCA008 and make a sharp right on narrower road 2SO6 (there is a fork after 0.9 sm , stay right at the fork on the main track). Drive 1.6 sm to N 37o 45' 47.9'' - W 118o 55' 27.0'' CCA009 and make a sharp left on 1S47 through a gate (there is a fork after 1.4 sm , stay right on the main track). Just after the gate there is a short steep downhill (possibly best with 4WD). Drive 2.0 sm to the small round parking at the end of the road at N 37o 47' 5.4'' - W 118o 54' 55.1'' CCA010 (there is a fork after 1.5 sm , stay right at fork on the main track).
The climbs are about 10 minutes walk up on a narrow trail north of the parking. King Spud 11c is at N 37o 47' 23.8'' - W 118o 54' 51.1'' CCA011 .
|USA, California, Bishop Area, Crystal Crag||
A small granite sport climbing area near Mammoth Mountain ski area. Follow driving directions for the Dike Wall and park at Lake George near the Crystal Lake trailhead sign at N 37o 36' 12.5'' - W 119o 0' 40.2'' CCA901
Take the Crystal Lake trail. The trail parallels a road at first and soon climbs with many switchbacks. Make a well marked left towards Crystal Lake at a fork at N 37o 35' 55.5'' - W 119o 1' 7.3'' CCA902 . After reaching Crystal Lake head straight up the mountain following unobvious climber trail(s) that start at N 37o 35' 40.3'' - W 119o 0' 59.8'' CCA903 . If you loose the faint trails, just keep going up (the crag is at the top!). Keep heading straight up (rather then angle right) at N 37o 35' 37.6'' - W 119o 0' 54.6'' CCA904 . The Highlands Wall (Cristal Crag NNW face) is at N 37o 35' 34.4'' - W 119o 0' 50.7'' CCA910 . The Schoolboy Butress is just a little further at N 37o 35' 31.6'' - W 119o 0' 47.6'' CCA909 . The altitude of the crag is about 9770 feet or 730 feet above Lake George and the parking.
|USA, California, Bishop Area, Dike Wall||
A granite sport climbing area near Mammoth Mountain ski area.
Take highway 395 north of Bishop to highway 203 west towards the town of Mammoth Lakes. From Mammoth Lakes follow signs to Lake Mary and park a little further at Lake George.
From the parking take the trail towards T J Berret. This trail takes you around Lake George clockwise along the east shore. Stay along the lake, never more then 100 feet away from the shore. At N 37o 35' 53.3'' - W 119o 0' 39.5'' CCA912 leave the shore and take a small (easy to miss) steep climber's path that climbs by a small house painted green and an outhouse. Follow the path to the crag at N 37o 35' 44.0'' - W 119o 0' 45.1'' CCA911 . The crag is 300 feet above Lake George.
|USA, California, Bishop Area, Druid Stones Boulders||
A huge collection of granite boulders.
Drive to the town of Bishop. At a main intersection head west on Line Street at N 37o 21' 41.1'' - W 118o 23' 43.6'' CCA920 . Drive 1.5 sm and make a left on Barlow Lane at N 37o 21' 40.5'' - W 118o 25' 23.7'' CCA921 . Drive 1.6 sm and make a right on Bir road (no sign) at N 37o 20' 16.6'' - W 118o 25' 23.1'' CCA922 . Drive 1.2 sm and make a left on a dirt road just after the third power line at N 37o 19' 31.9'' - W 118o 26' 21.8'' CCA923 . Drive 0.2 sm on the dirt road under the power line and make a right at N 37o 19' 26.7'' - W 118o 26' 7.3'' CCA924 . Drive heading south-west 0.7 sm to the end of "Warm Springs Road" (no sign) to the start of the trail at N 37o 19' 1.1'' - W 118o 26' 40.5'' CCA925 .
The small but well traveled trail starts heading south-west up a small canyon. The trail is obvious to follow. After a few minutes you come to this unremarkable point in the canyon: N 37o 18' 58.7'' - W 118o 26' 41.9'' CCA926 . After about a 45 minutes walk you will arrive at the main bouldering area at N 37o 18' 24.3'' - W 118o 26' 40.5'' CCA927 , the gps measured altitude is 6150 feet . The large "Druid Stone" boulder is nearby at N 37o 18' 26.0'' - W 118o 26' 11.8'' CCA928 .
Note that many boulders can be seen all along the way up to the main area. If you continue on the trail pass the main area for another 20 minutes to N 37o 17' 20.1'' - W 118o 26' 52.7'' CCA929 a whole new set of boulders are nearby!
|USA, California, Bishop Area, Owens River Gorge||
Many great well protected sport climbs in a canyon that would make a good set for a "survival after world war III" movie.
Drive on highway 395, about 14.0 sm north of the town of Bishop. Turn east on Gorge Road at N 37o 26' 45.7'' - W 118o 34' 18.4'' CCA032 . After about 0.5 sm you will reach a T junction (the T junction is at N 37o 26' 41.3'' - W 118o 33' 34.8'' CCA033 ), at the T junction make a left onto the Gorge Parallel road (heading North). Drive north along that road and make a right when you hit the latitude of the selected central or south parking area. The north parking area is along the road.
|USA, California, Joshua Tree Area, Joshua Tree Park||
Many trad climbs on many small granite domes in a very scenic National Park You will probably not need your GPS to find the following areas.
|USA, California, Joshua Tree Area, New Jack City||
Interesting short sport climbs on rather loose rock in the middle of the desert. The bolts are good and close. This is not a major climbing area.
From the city of Barstow in Southern California drive south on highway 247 and turn right (heading south-west) on a dirt road at N 34o 40' 52.1'' - W 116o 57' 59.2'' CCA045 (This point is 17.5 sm north of the small town of Lucerne Valley on highway 237, a pumping station is near this point). Drive 1.8 sm on the dirt road. Try to stay on the main dirt road, heading towards the larger steeper rocks. A 4WD might be advisable to go all the way. Park at N 34o 39' 58.6'' - W 116o 58' 42.2'' CCA046 (the GPS altitude is about 3600 feet ). You are at the "Parking Area" near the Meat Locker formation.
|USA, California, Lake Tahoe Area, Big Chief||
A limited number of short and usually well bolted sport climbs.
The cliffs are not easy to find: From San Francisco drive on I80 to the town of Truckee, in Truckee make a sharp right on road SR267 ( N 39o 19' 39.0'' - W 120o 11' 1.3'' CCA047 ), drive 2.0 sm and turn right on Palisades ( N 39o 19' 33.2'' - W 120o 10' 37.7'' CCA048 ), drive 0.8 sm and turn right on Silverfir ( N 39o 18' 56.3'' - W 120o 10' 49.0'' CCA049 ), drive 0.4 sm and turn left on Thelin ( N 39o 18' 55.4'' - W 120o 11' 20.1'' CCA050 ), just after the turn on Thelin (less then 0.1 sm ) turn right on forest service road #6 trough gate ( N 39o 18' 46.7'' - W 120o 11' 20.2'' CCA051 ), drive 5.0 sm staying on the main dirt road go strait in doubt), turn right on an unobvious and unmarked forest road at N 39o 15' 0.5'' - W 120o 11' 24.5'' CCA052 and park. Walk 0.7 sm along a small trail near an old logging road to the unremarkable old parking area at N 39o 14' 44.2'' - W 120o 12' 1.3'' CCA053 . From the old parking area take a relatively good climbers trail uphill (heading west) to a break in the cliffs at N 39o 14' 44.3'' - W 120o 12' 1.1'' CCA054 . From break in the cliffs walk down to the bottom of the cliffs, the West Face of the North wall is to your left. The dense forest might block at times the GPS signal.
|USA, California, Lake Tahoe Area, Donner Summit||
Trad and sport climbing on excellent granite in the scenic Sierras. The climbs are on a set of disparate short walls around old highway 40. The climbing is very varied: slabs, cracks, faces and even radical overhangs. The number sport climbs is limited and you will usually only find one or two sport climbs at your level in a given area. The quality and spacing of the bolts varies. The altitude is around 7000 feet .
From the Town of Truckee, North of Lake Tahoe, take old highway 40 westbound to Donner Summit. The climbs are along the highway, before the summit, before the Alpine Skills Institute building.
From the city of Sacramento take freeway I80 eastbound, before the town of Truckee take Soda Springs exit and follow old highway 40. The climbs are along the highway, passed the summit, after the Alpine Skills Institute building.
|USA, California, Lake Tahoe Area, Eagle Creek Canyon||
Small granite crags along the south-west shore of lake Tahoe. Take highway 89 and park at Emerald Bay at the Eagle Lake Parking area N 38o 57' 7.3'' - W 120o 6' 43.8'' CCA061 .
|USA, California, Lake Tahoe Area, Lovers Leap||
Mainly easy to moderate trad routes and some bolted lines on granite. The routes are up to three pitches. Easy and moderate routes abound. The cliffs are easy to find and you will probably not need to refer to the GPS coordinates.
From the city of Sacramento take highway 50 towards South Lake Tahoe. Turn right in the small community of Strawberry at Strawberry Lodge. Drive to the nearby campground located towards the cliffs and park. Walk towards the cliffs on an obvious path.
|USA, California, San Francisco Bay Area, Mount Diablo||
Mt. Diablo is only worth checking out if you live in the Bay Area. You will find top ropes, sport routes and trad cracks on sandstone. Beware of poison oak (its all over the climbing areas).
Take highway 680 to Danville, take Diablo road exit (direction north-east), follow Diablo road as it winds around a suburban are, make a left at N 37o 49' 56.0'' - W 121o 57' 7.1'' CCA066 towards the Mt. Diablo State Park (you are now on Mt. Diablo Scenic Blvd), enter the park (pay entrance fee), park in the first pick nick area on the right (see coordinates).
|USA, California, San Francisco Bay Area, Red Rock/Mickey's Beach||
Red Rock Beach, also called "Mickey's Beach" has probably the best hard sport climbing in the Bay Area and some bouldering. Its also a beautiful clothing optional beach/climbing area!
Take highway 1 along the cost north of San Francisco nearly all the way to the small beach town of Stinson beach. Park at N 37o 53' 19.4'' - W 122o 37' 46.7'' CCAM01 walk down to the obvious main rock at N 37o 53' 18.8'' - W 122o 37' 57.6'' CCAM02 .
About 1000 feet south-east there is an other large rock along the coast called "The Egg". Its tempting (and pretty) to walk to it directly to The Egg from Mickey's Beach, but you will get wet even at low tide. The easiest approach is to park at the Steep Ravine Cabins gate on highway 1 at N 37o 53' 10.9'' - W 122o 37' 35.2'' CCAM03 and walk down the road to the cabins and then north-west along the beach to the Egg shaped rock at N 37o 53' 8.7'' - W 122o 37' 47.2'' CCAM04 . If the tide is exceptionally low check this point just north of the Egg for a very nice warming surprize: N 37o 53' 11.4'' - W 122o 37' 50.6'' CCAM05 .
|USA, California, San Jose Area, Pinnacles National Monument||
A handful of good sport climbs in a area full of awfully loose volcanic rock. The Monolith has the best climbs in the monument.
|USA, California, Sonora Pass Area, Lost World||
A few sport and trad climbs on granite in a very scenic area.
Take highway 108 42.0 sm pass the city of Jamestown (near the city of Sonora) and make a right on dirt road 5NO6 at N 38o 18' 37.1'' - W 119o 56' 17.7'' CCA070 the altitude is 6560 feet . Drive 0.3 sm and the road splits and splits again a little further to effectively make a 3 prongs fork, take the middle road of that 3 prongs fork (the right prong road is labeled 5N14Y). Drive and park at the end of the drivable part of the road at N 38o 19' 21.5'' - W 119o 57' 8.5'' CCA071 the altitude is 5950 feet . Walk about 200 metres further along the closed forest road, make a right onto slabs (faint trail and cairns) and walk to the start of a steep climber's trail at N 38o 19' 35.3'' - W 119o 57' 21.8'' CCA072 . Drop down the trail to the Lost World, the climb Green Monster 12a is at N 38o 19' 44.8'' - W 119o 57' 14.9'' CCA073 the altitude is 5085 feet . A few minutes walk further and you can swim in beautiful Donnell Creek lake.
|USA, California, Sonora Pass Area, Potter's Rock||
A small and interesting trad and sport granite area.
From the townof Sonora drive 32.0 sm east bound on Sonora Pass highway 108 to the small town of Strawberry. From Strawberry drive an other 4.0 sm on highway 108. Turn left on Beardsley road at N 38o 13' 15.6'' - W 119o 59' 54.2'' CCA074 and drive 1.0 sm . Turn right on gravel road 5N06 and drive 2.1 sm . Take right fork on 5N09X. and drive 2.5 sm to parking.
|USA, California, Sonora Pass Area, Table Mountain (Grotto)||
A few good sport climbs on basalt, from 5.10a to 5.12b. Most climbs are short. The Grotto is not a good destination area, but might be worth a detour.
Take highway 108, in James Town take Rawhide road and follow these directions:
|USA, California, Mt. Whitney, Mountaineers Route||
The Mountaineers route is a long, steep gully flanking the NW side of Mount Whitney. The trail meanders through bushes; ascends steep, loose dirt and scree; and climbs easy 3rd class near the summit. It can be done with one very long day or two days with a bivy. The best time of year is late summer after the snow has melted from the gully. I recommend hiking to Upper Boy Scout Lake and bivying for the night, then summit and hike out. Go light as there is lots of altitude gain and difficult hiking.
Start at Lone Pine, CA and drive west up Whitney Portal Road to the ranger station. Begin at the trail head N 36o 35' 12.3'' - W 118o 14' 25.2'' CCAW01 to Mt. Whitney. Hike this well traveled trail to Pine Creek N 36o 35' 12.5'' - W 118o 14' 43.3'' CCAW02 , cross the creek, and turn west up the drainage. The next section is difficult meandering through bushes, especially with a pack. Use the following coordinates to assist with route finding:
|N 36o 35' 11.9'' - W 118o 14' 56.7'' CCAW03||N 36o 35' 10.8'' - W 118o 14' 56.6'' CCAW04|
|N 36o 35' 10.6'' - W 118o 14' 55.6'' CCAW05||N 36o 35' 8.6'' - W 118o 14' 55.9'' CCAW06|
|N 36o 35' 9.4'' - W 118o 15' 1.2'' CCAW07||N 36o 35' 8.1'' - W 118o 15' 3.5'' CCAW08|
|N 36o 35' 7.2'' - W 118o 15' 3.4'' CCAW09||N 36o 35' 7.2'' - W 118o 15' 4.7'' CCAW10|
|N 36o 35' 7.0'' - W 118o 15' 8.2'' CCAW11||N 36o 35' 9.0'' - W 118o 15' 9.3'' CCAW12|
|N 36o 35' 8.3'' - W 118o 15' 10.2'' CCAW13||N 36o 35' 7.4'' - W 118o 15' 13.0'' CCAW14|
The traveling is abit easier now. Take the trail upwards to N 36o 35' 9.0'' - W 118o 15' 16.8'' CCAW16 and parallel the creek to N 36o 35' 5.1'' - W 118o 15' 33.0'' CCAW17 . Cross the creek N 36o 35' 2.9'' - W 118o 15' 29.2'' CCAW18 and pass Lower Boy Scout Lake on the south side. When you get to Clyde's meadow watch for the inconspicuous trail through the bushes:
|N 36o 34' 48.6'' - W 118o 15' 55.7'' CCAW19||N 36o 34' 49.1'' - W 118o 15' 56.9'' CCAW20|
|N 36o 34' 49.0'' - W 118o 16' 0.9'' CCAW21||N 36o 34' 48.4'' - W 118o 16' 7.9'' CCAW22|
Leave Upper Boy Scout Lake by heading south to N 36o 34' 48.7'' - W 118o 16' 16.4'' CCAW24 . Go west passing the moraine N 36o 34' 41.1'' - W 118o 16' 46.3'' CCAW25 and a cliff. Go up through the cliff band at N 36o 34' 42.7'' - W 118o 17' 5.1'' CCAW26 . Now you are at Ice Berg Lake N 36o 34' 48.1'' - W 118o 17' 5.5'' CCAW27 , and facing serious altitude gain. This is the last place to get water.
Scramble up the rocks on the south side of the gully, do not start in the gully, to N 36o 34' 47.0'' - W 118o 17' 24.8'' CCAW28 . Now work your way into the gully and slip and slide your way to the top of it N 36o 34' 46.3'' - W 118o 17' 37.9'' CCAW29 . Hike west to the first col N 36o 34' 45.8'' - W 118o 17' 38.5'' CCAW30 and climb 3rd class to the top N 36o 34' 42.6'' - W 118o 17' 39.6'' CCAW31 . A few hundred yards more and you are at the summit of Mt. Whitney N 36o 34' 43.0'' - W 118o 17' 31.3'' CCAW32 , the highest place in the contiguous US.
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|USA, California, Yosemite Park, Tuolumne Meadows||
A world famous area in Yosemite park, full of large granite domes. Climbs are often less then vertical with knobs. Tuolumne Meadows is full of trad routes with long runouts and very very old bolts, there is only a few sport routes. East Cottage Dome and Medlicot Dome have most of the good sport routes. Your GPS will be very usefull to find all the following areas.
From the town of Manteca (South of Stockton, West of San Francisco) take highway 120 and follow it nearly to Tioga pass.
|USA, California, Yosemite Park, Yosemite Valley||
The world famous Yosemite Valley ("The Valley"). You are surrounded by huge walls of granite and spectacular waterfalls on both side of the valley. Most climbing is "trad" crack climbing with few or no bolts. Aid and "Big Wall" climbs also abound.
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