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USA, Arizona, Jacks Canyon - Moenkopi   
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Many great well protected short sport climbs in an isolated canyon East of Flagstaff.

From the city of Winslow take road 87 south to N 34o 44' 34.2'' - W 111o 3' 10.2'' CUS001 and make a right turn (through a gate) onto a small and easy to miss dirt road. Follow the main dirt road (avoid turning right at the first fork after about 0.2 sm and drive to the parking/camping area at N 34o 45' 18.4'' - W 111o 3' 42.8'' CUS002 . Camping is free and unimproved. From the parking follow the well marked trail lined by white rocks on both side to the crags.

USA, Arizona, Mt Lemmon   
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North of the city of Tucson. Only the coordinates to the Outback are available for now.

USA, Colorado, Canon City Area, Shelf Road   
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A great area, with many well protected sport routes on limestone.

West of the city of Colorado Springs. North of Canon City. Take highway 9 north (Shelf Road) from Canon City (direction Cripple Creak). Drive pass the end of the pavement, open a gate on the left side of the road, drive a few hundred meters to Sandy Gulch parking and campground (use coordinates).

USA, Colorado, Colorado City Area, Garden of the Gods   
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The Garden of the Gods is located near the city of Colorado Springs (less than an hour south of Denver on Interstate 25). Take highway 24 west off of I-25. There are numerous signs and the GPS coordinates are not necessary to locate the area.

N 38o 52' 43.6'' - W 104o 52' 10.8'' CUS014 is the Visitor Center where registration is required (located across the highway from the actual climbs). The rocks are mostly sandstone (no climbing allowed in wet weather due to fragile rock). Some climbs are on granite. Most routes are bolted and at one time many of the hardest sport climbs in the country were located here (up to 5.13c), but there are many climbs at all grades. White chalk is strictly forbidden, colored chalk or other drying agents can be approved at the Visitor's Center. There are no overnight or bivouacs in the park, but there is camping at Pike's Peak.

This information was provided by James Lee of Oklahoma.

USA, Colorado, Glenwood Springs Area - Hot Springs   
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USA, Colorado, Rifle Area, Rifle   
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Hard overhanging well protected sport routes on limestone.

The park is north of the town of Rifle. On I70 take exit 90 (Rifle). Take CO 13 North (direction Meeker) to CO 395 to Rifle Mountain Park.

USA, Idaho, City Of Rocks   
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A large area with a maze of granite rocks of different size. There is a mix of trad and sport, protection quality varies and sport routes are sometimes far apart. The area is scenic and the camping is great.

USA, Idaho, Boise Area, Pine Flat Hot Springs   
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USA, Kentucky, Lexington Area, Red River Gorge   
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A set of great sandstone climbing areas.

From the city of Lexington take interstate I64 eastbound, take exit 98 that puts you on Mountain Parkway, drive 32.0 sm on Mountain Parkway and take exit 33 at N 37o 47' 50.7'' - W 83o 42' 13.3'' CXX040 . Now follow the directions to individual climbing areas.

The Red River Gorge has many other great areas, here is a few coordinates that might help in conjunction with a guidebook:

USA, Nevada, Las Vegas Area, Limestone Areas   
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Smaller limestone areas around Las Vegas. Certainly worth a visit if you are climbing at Red Rocks for a few days. The Test Site is much more scenic then Urban Crag, but probably requires a 4WD car with good clearance.

USA, Nevada, Las Vegas Area, Red Rocks   
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A large sandstone climbing area nearby (west of) the city of Las Vegas. Most of the sport climbs are accessed from the loop road (First pullout, Second pullout or Sandstone Quarry).

From interstate I15 in Las Vegas take Charleston Blvd. west to Route 159. For the First pullout, Second pullout or Sandstone Quarry areas enter the one way "Loop Road" next to the Red Rocks Conservation Area Park (fee). Calico Basin has a different approach.

USA, New Mexico, Diablo Canyon   
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Basalt cliffs near the city of Santa Fe with both sport and trad climbing. The area is pretty and has multiple walls.

From down town Santa Fe go north on San Francis Drive (highway 285) for less then 2.0 sm and exit on 599 south at N 35o 42' 33.8'' - W 105o 56' 27.8'' CUSX90 . Drive and exit on Camino La Tierra heading north-west near N 35o 43' 2.2'' - W 106o 1' 26.2'' CUSX91 . I recommend that you also consult an interactive map by clicking on the last waypoint as the area is confusing. Drive pass the end of the pavement at N 35o 43' 31.1'' - W 106o 2' 47.3'' CUSX92 . Now you have about 8.0 sm of relatively good dirt road to drive with out much forks. Drive pass Dead Dog well at N 35o 44' 57.3'' - W 106o 6' 9.1'' CUSX93 . As you see the crags make a left and go through a decaying cattle gate into a wash at N 35o 48' 13.4'' - W 106o 8' 6.5'' CUSX94 (best for 4WD?). Drive near to the Winter Wall at N 35o 48' 18.9'' - W 106o 8' 21.7'' CUSX95

USA, New Mexico, Enchanted Tower   
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Great steep sport climbs on volcanic tuff in the high desert. The area is small, but the routes are nearly all of exceptional quality. The shortest access road (by far) crosses a private ranch. In October 2001 that road was closed with a locked gate. For access contact the Access Fund in Boulder Colorado and follow their instructions.

From the city of Albuquerque drive south on interstate 25 for about 80.0 sm and turn west on highway 60, drive 63.0 sm to the very small town of Datil, stay on hwy 60 for an other 5.2 sm pass the main intersection in Datil and make a right on a private dirt road just before mile marker 72 at N 34o 11' 59.5'' - W 107o 54' 23.0'' CXX050 , after 0.8 sm make a left just before the ranch through a gate with a sign that says "primitive road" (you might have to unlock the gate, see above), drive an other 1.7 sm to the Enchanted Tower parking at N 34o 13' 49.6'' - W 107o 55' 2.3'' CXX051 . The Tower is obvious from the parking.

USA, New Mexico, Los Alamos area - Hot Springs   
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USA, New Mexico, Taos area - Hot Springs   
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USA, Oregon, Smith Rock   
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Many sport routes (not always closely bolted) on tuff (and also basalt) mainly vertical.

North of the city of Bend in central Oregon. From the city of Redmont drive north on 97, turn east on B avenue and follow signs to Smith Rock State Park.

USA, Pennsylvania, Haycock Mountain   
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The Haycock area is a climbing gem waiting to be fully realized. The area consists of granite boulders spread out over several miles of trails. There are over 100 established boulder problems and many more to be discovered. From the parking lot follow the trail, the boulders are all around. The trail does not loop and it's easy to get lost.

Information provided by an anonymous contributor.

USA, Pennsylvania, Ralph Stover State Park   
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The climbing area is known as High Rocks or Tohickon Gorge and has over 100 routes. It is popular for spectacular views and geological features including a 200-foot sheer rock face. Most climbs can be top roped as well as lead and there is some bouldering.

From the parking cross the street and follow the trail for 100 yards to the top of the cliffs. There is a trail that runs top of the cliffs and a trail that runs at the bottom.

Information provided by an anonymous contributor.

USA, South Dakota, Mt. Rushmore   
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The Mt. Rushmore climbing area is located just south of Rapid City off Interstate 90 to highway 16. Climbing is allowed anywhere in the park except the clearly marked area of the presidents faces and areas where the climbers are clearly visible from the road. The rock is pegmatite granite with few protection placements available. Most of the climbs are sport routes with rap anchors at the top, but the shiny granite can make spotting the bolts from the ground a tricky business. Guide books are available at the visitor's book store at the Rushmore Memorial. The nearby Needles area is on the same rock type, but with more trad climbing available.

N 43o 52' 59.0'' - W 103o 27' 49.1'' CUSX60 is the location of one pull-off (out of many) along the highway. The register book and map of the area is located to the East and is visible from the road here. From this point there are trails in 3 directions to climbs within 100 yards or less making for an easy approach.

This information was provided by James Lee of Oklahoma.

USA, Utah, Salt Lake Area, American Fork   
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Steep limestone climbs in a canyon south of Salt Lake City north of the city of Provo. The narrow canyon makes GPS measurements difficult at times!

From Salt Lake City drive south on I5, take exit 287 and drive east on highway 92.

USA, Utah, Salt Lake Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon   
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From Salt Lake City on freeway 15 turn west on highway 215, take exit 6 following signs to Solitude ski area, make a left on Fort Union Blvd and drive up the canyon to the climbing areas:

USA, Utah, Salt Lake Area, Logan Canyon   
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Sport climbs on high quality limestone in a scenic canyon. Climbs from vertical to radically overhanging. The bolting is of good quality.

The city of Logan is about 60.0 sm north of Salt Lake City (the drive from Salt Lake is about 90.0 sm ). The climbs are on both side of Logan Canyon along highway 89 a few minutes east of the city of Logan. The parking areas are easy to find using highway 89 mile markers. The following directions assume that you are driving east (up) the canyon.

USA, Utah, Maple Canyon   
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Fun sport routes on cobble stones.

From Salt Lake City Utah go south on interstate I15 and take exit 225 to highway 132 east bound. Drive to the town of Fountain Green and make a right on 400 South at N 39o 37' 21.7'' - W 111o 38' 4.0'' CUS067 (follow Maple Canyon sign). Drive 6.0 sm and turn right on Freedom road (heading NNW true) at N 39o 30' 51.2'' - W 111o 37' 53.6'' CUS068 . After 0.5 sm make a right. Continue along the small road to Maple Canyon.

The Box Canyon pullout is at N 39o 33' 18.5'' - W 111o 40' 30.5'' CUS069 .

The pullout for Zen Garden, the Minimum Wall, Cragmont, Pipe Dreams (and other crags) is pass the campground at N 39o 33' 38.4'' - W 111o 41' 15.4'' CUS070 ). To hit these crags walk 0.2 sm from the pullout heading north-west on a small path. Just after passing close to Minimum Crag on the left make a right at a fork at N 40o 13' 45.7'' - W 111o 41' 26.9'' CUSX71 . Walk to Zen Garden nearby at N 39o 33' 46.4'' - W 111o 41' 26.8'' CUSX72 . Cragmont is at N 39o 33' 53.5'' - W 111o 41' 28.2'' CUSX73 . For Pipe Dreams do not make a right at fork near Minimum Crag and keep heading up canyon to a fantastic huge cave. No coordinates yet.

USA, Utah, St George Area, Welcome Springs   
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A lot of limestone! Varied climbing including radical caves in a remote area.

From St George take route 91 west for 10.7 sm and turn right on a dirt road at N 37o 3' 54.4'' - W 113o 53' 19.7'' CUS100 . Drive about 2.0 sm and make a right turn at N 37o 4' 18.5'' - W 113o 55' 8.9'' CUS101 . Drive about 2.0 sm again and park near corrals in a wash at N 37o 5' 49.1'' - W 113o 54' 39.6'' CUS102 . Follow the wash to a cottonwood tree at N 37o 5' 48.0'' - W 113o 54' 22.1'' CUS103 . The wash forks, take the left fork heading 16 o true . Keep walking in the wash, soon you will see on your right Logan Crag at N 37o 5' 49.4'' - W 113o 54' 17.5'' CUS104 . Further in the wash on the left you will see the larger Sumo Wall that is located at N 37o 5' 56.9'' - W 113o 54' 15.9'' CUS105 . Walk further in the wash to the start of the trail for The Cathedral at N 37o 6' 6.8'' - W 113o 54' 3.1'' CUS106 . The trail heads up and right to The Cathedral located near N 37o 6' 4.2'' - W 113o 53' 55.4'' CUS107 . The Cathedral is a fantastic overhanging cave in a beautiful remote area; the cave becomes apparent as you walk up.

USA, West Virginia, Summersville Lake   
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Just 20 minutes north of New River Gorge, Summersville Lake offers great sport climbing in the 5.10 to 5.12 range with a few 13's. The cliffs are next to the lake and it is always fun to go for a swim a cool off on hot days. Although climbable all year long, the best times to climb here is Spring and Fall.

From points north and south, take State Route 19 towards Summersville Lake. The parking area is located just past the north side of the Gauley River bridge at N 38o 14' 46.1'' - W 80o 51' 23.3'' CUSX74 . Follow the obvious trail up the hill, bear left at the split and follow the trail to the ladder. The Coliseum and Perrot Wall are to the left. All other climbs are to the right.

This information was provided by Chad Keener.

USA, Wisconsin, Devil's Lake   
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Trad climbing area with many climbs rated 5.7 to 5.12, from 30 feet to 100 feet in height.

Devil's Lake Park is approximately 6.0 sm south of Baraboo, Wisconsin. Barabooo is approximately 35.0 sm northwest of Madison, Wisconsin. The parking lot is located along South Lake Road in the park.

From the parking at N 43o 24' 38.1'' - W 89o 42' 41.3'' CUSX81 take the CCC (Cilvilian Conservation Corps) trail towards the East Bluff. Head north half way up the bluff and then west to a crag (one of many) at N 43o 24' 48.6'' - W 89o 42' 59.0'' CUSX82

This information was provided by Ken Braband.

USA, Wyoming, Devil's tower   
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Mainly trad crack climbing on hard volcanic rock columns. The tower is an incredible sight.

The Tower is in the very north-east corner of the square shaped Wyoming state. Simply park at the visitor's center of the National Monument.

USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Baldwin Creek   
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This is a big horn Dolomite cliff near Lander with mainly harder climbs. Access requires a sturdy 4 wheel drive with high clearance or (better) an "ATV - 4 wheeler". Roads are closed to all traffic in winter. From the town of Lander take Baldwin Creek road west for 5.5 sm and make a right on unpaved Shoshone Lake road. After 0.9 sm stay right at N 42o 49' 46.4'' - W 108o 51' 2.3'' CUS085 . Follow Shoshone Lake road up pass an ATV parking area at the top of a hill at N 42o 49' 54.5'' - W 108o 53' 29.5'' CUS086 . From that point the road gets much worse. Keep going straight pass the ATV parking. Drive and park along the road at N 42o 48' 27.5'' - W 108o 55' 32.6'' CUS087 . Walk a short distance to a small red dirt trail leaving on the left side of the road (heading south) at N 42o 48' 23.7'' - W 108o 55' 37.3'' CUS088 . Walk in the forest following the trail and go over a barb wire fence at N 42o 48' 3.5'' - W 108o 55' 5.9'' CUS089 . Walk to a small red rock pile in a meadow at N 42o 47' 56.4'' - W 108o 55' 0.5'' CUS090 . Just after the red rock pile the faint trail drops down a break in the cliffs. As you proceed down the break in the cliffs, keep left at N 42o 47' 50.3'' - W 108o 55' 3.2'' CUS091 . Once at the base of the cliffs head left (east) along the base to reach the climbing area. The route "Gimmie Shelter" is at N 42o 47' 46.5'' - W 108o 54' 46.8'' CUS092

USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Fossil Hill   
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This is a big horn Dolomite cliff near Lander that is much less traveled then Wild Iris or Sinks Canyon. From the town of Lander take Highway 113 heading south-west to Sinks Canyon. Drive up the whole canyon. Make a left (you have no other option) on the unpaved Loop Road FS 300 (this left turn is near Bruce's parking). Drive up the windy road 4.4 sm or 1300 feet up from Bruce's parking (altimeter) and park on the left in a large open sloping meadow at 7000 feet altitude (altimeter). A stunning rock prow is visible from the parking. A faint climber trail crosses the meadow and leads to the Main Area (go over a fence). To go to the Prow With a View head strait up to it climbing a very steep meadow.

Friends of the author and the author have established two routes on the Prow With A View  .

USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Sinks Canyon Area   
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This large climbing area in a canyon is a mix of limestone (big horn Dolomite), sandstone and granite. Most of the sport routes are on limestone. The Main Wall has great and well protected sport climbs. Killer Cave is an impressive large overhanging cave with many hard climbs. Sinks Canyon is definitively worth a trip.

Sinks Canyon is about 9.0 sm south-west of the town of Lander.

Dennis Vandenbos and the author have established new routes on the south-east or "shady" side of the canyon:
Heavy Metal Rock Band  .

USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Wild Iris   
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A large number of great and well protected sport climbs on white limestone in a unspoiled and scenic mountain setting.

Wild Iris is south of the town of Lander. From Lander drive south-east for about 24.0 sm on highway 26, make a right on Limestone Mountain Road (no pavement), make a right at fork after about 1.3 sm , park in parking lot (see coordinates).

colororange.com - gpsclimb.commap datum WGS84

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