|USA, Arizona, Jacks Canyon - Moenkopi
Many great well protected short sport climbs in an isolated canyon East
From the city of Winslow take road 87 south to
N 34o 44' 34.2'' - W 111o 3' 10.2''
CUS001 and make a right turn (through a gate) onto a small and easy to miss dirt
road. Follow the main dirt road (avoid turning right at the first fork
and drive to the parking/camping area at
N 34o 45' 18.4'' - W 111o 3' 42.8''
CUS002 . Camping is free and unimproved.
From the parking follow the well marked trail lined by white rocks on both side
to the crags.
N 34o 45' 20.1'' - W 111o 3' 47.3''
CUS004 where the well marked trail starts
down the canyon. You will soon see Casino cliffs on the other side
of the Canyon.
North of the city of Tucson. Only the coordinates to the Outback are available
Outback Area parking
N 32o 23' 16.7'' - W 110o 41' 43.0''
CUS005 (for start of trail
go up a few yards to next pullout, trail starts uphill on the right side
of Mt Lemmon highway, assuming that you are heading up the mountain).
N 32o 23' 17.5'' - W 110o 41' 29.7''
CUS006 point along the trail to the Outback, as the
trail forks, make a right and follow trail marked by numerous kerns. The
trail is hard to follow at times and winds around..
N 32o 23' 13.6'' - W 110o 41' 0.7''
CUS007 Outback Area. Follow fixed ropes down
|USA, Colorado, Canon City Area, Shelf Road
A great area, with many well protected sport routes on limestone.
West of the city of Colorado Springs. North of Canon City. Take highway
9 north (Shelf Road) from Canon City (direction Cripple Creak). Drive pass
the end of the pavement, open a gate on the left side of the road, drive
a few hundred meters to Sandy Gulch parking and campground (use coordinates).
Sandy Gulch area parking (and campground)
N 38o 37' 3.3'' - W 105o 13' 49.0''
Sandy Gulch, a climb called Village Idiot 11a/b on the east
side of the gulch
N 38o 37' 17.8'' - W 105o 13' 49.5''
Gallery Area, Bulge Wall
N 38o 37' 10.5'' - W 105o 14' 18.5''
CUS010 (not a precise point). Note for the Gallery you can park at Sandy Gulch parking,
but you can also park closer with 4WD vehicle.
Gallery Area, Mural Wall, Tuna Tuna Tuna 11b climb,
N 38o 37' 11.0'' - W 105o 14' 14.5''
The Bank area parking (and campground). To get to the Bank drive
on Shelf Road a short distance pass Sand Gulch and make a left turn on a steep spur road.
N 38o 37' 44.7'' - W 105o 13' 38.2''
The Bank, Back to the Future wall, Back to the Future climb 11b/c,
N 38o 38' 1.3'' - W 105o 13' 46.9''
Cactus Cliff. The Access Fund has bought this new cliff. Drive further on Shelf Road and
make a left on a steep spur road at mile 11.1 (this milage is an interpolation of
Shelf road mile markers) at
N 38o 37' 44.5'' - W 105o 13' 19.3''
CXX047 . Drive about
to the parking at
N 38o 37' 56.0'' - W 105o 13' 24.4''
CXX046 . The very nice (but stupidly runout at top) climb Wadsworth Boulevard 10c is at
N 38o 37' 54.6'' - W 105o 13' 20.1''
CXX045 . You can keep walking a long time along the cliffs and find more and more fun sport climbs.
If you walk far enough you will get to "Spiney Ridge" and eventually to "The Gym".
|USA, Colorado, Colorado City Area, Garden of the Gods
The Garden of the Gods is located near the city of Colorado Springs (less
than an hour south of Denver on Interstate 25). Take highway 24 west off
of I-25. There are numerous signs and the GPS coordinates are not necessary
to locate the area.
N 38o 52' 43.6'' - W 104o 52' 10.8''
CUS014 is the Visitor Center where registration
is required (located across the highway from the actual climbs). The
rocks are mostly sandstone (no climbing allowed in wet weather due
to fragile rock). Some climbs are on granite. Most routes are bolted and
at one time many of the hardest sport climbs in the country were located
here (up to 5.13c), but there are many climbs at all grades. White chalk
is strictly forbidden, colored chalk or other drying agents can be approved
at the Visitor's Center. There are no overnight or bivouacs in the park,
but there is camping at Pike's Peak.
This information was provided by James Lee of Oklahoma.
|USA, Colorado, Glenwood Springs Area - Hot Springs
South Canyon Hot Springs From the town of Glenwood Springs take
highway I70 to South Canyon exit (exit number 111), cross the Colorado
river on a narrow metal bridge and head up the canyon on a windy paved
road. Park to the right of the road in a narrow dirt pullout at
N 39o 33' 15.2'' - W 107o 24' 37.8''
CUS015 . Cross the creek next to the road on a log and
walk to the dark muddy hot spring at
N 39o 33' 16.7'' - W 107o 24' 41.6''
CUS016 . You can try body painting with the green and black mud!
|USA, Colorado, Rifle Area, Rifle
Hard overhanging well protected sport routes on limestone.
The park is north of the town of Rifle. On I70 take exit 90 (Rifle).
Take CO 13 North (direction Meeker) to CO 395 to Rifle Mountain Park.
Ruckman's Cave parking pullout
N 39o 43' 10.7'' - W 107o 41' 26.4''
CUS017 , cross the river, walk a few meters and you are in Ruckman's cave. Choss Family
Robinson (11d/12a) is on the far left of the cave.
Rifle Meadows, free camping in a scenic meadow. From the
north exit of Rifle Mountain Park drive
on road 825, make a left on road 832 (this road is
pass Spruce picnic grounds), at the first fork make a left on road 833
(towards "Orphan Spring") park in the Meadow at
N 39o 44' 49.6'' - W 107o 42' 2.5''
CUS018 next to a pond.
|USA, Idaho, City Of Rocks
A large area with a maze of granite rocks of different size. There is a
mix of trad and sport, protection quality varies and sport routes are sometimes
far apart. The area is scenic and the camping is great.
Parking Lot Rock Area parking
N 42o 5' 0.2'' - W 113o 43' 25.6''
Window Rock West Wall, She Is The Bosh climb 11a/b,
N 42o 5' 5.9'' - W 113o 43' 23.0''
CUS020 altitude is about
park at the Parking Lot Rock Area
|USA, Idaho, Boise Area, Pine Flat Hot Springs
Pine Flat Hot Springs, north east of the city of Boise, near Lowman,
along the road between Lowman & Crouch. Park in Pine Flat campground
N 44o 3' 47.4'' - W 115o 40' 59.0''
CUS021 , ignore the posted signs about clothing requirements and walk
on marked trail to
N 44o 3' 37.1'' - W 115o 41' 18.1''
CUS022 . The pools and water falls by the river are cooler then the very hot small
ponds higher up along the steep slope.
|USA, Kentucky, Lexington Area, Red River Gorge
A set of great sandstone climbing areas.
From the city of Lexington take interstate I64 eastbound, take exit 98 that puts you on Mountain Parkway,
on Mountain Parkway and take exit 33 at
N 37o 47' 50.7'' - W 83o 42' 13.3''
CXX040 . Now follow the directions to individual climbing areas.
The Red River Gorge has many other great areas, here is a few coordinates that might help in conjunction with a guidebook:
Southern Region, Motherlode. From exit 33 off ramp (see directions above) turn right (south) on KY 11,
and turn right on KY 498 at
N 37o 38' 19.0'' - W 83o 41' 50.7''
CXX038 , drive
and make a right on a small road at
N 37o 38' 9.5'' - W 83o 42' 57.8''
CXX031 (the only sign at that turn says Hopewell First Church of God) the pavement will soon end, drive
down a steep section (4WD?) to the Motherlode parking at
N 37o 38' 42.4'' - W 83o 42' 51.5''
CXX032 . Please email me the coordinate of the crag.
Southern Region, Drive By Crag.
From the Motherlode parking (see directions above) drive
and go strait (do not make a right) at un unremarkable fork at
N 37o 38' 49.9'' - W 83o 43' 9.7''
CXX037 , from that unremarkable fork drive
and make a sharp right on a steep 4WD road at
N 37o 38' 55.4'' - W 83o 43' 34.0''
CXX035 (there is many other similar roads nearby, a GPS should help you make the correct turn),
and stay right at a fork,
to an abandoned oil well and park at
N 37o 39' 10.6'' - W 83o 43' 30.1''
CXX036 , the Drive By Crag is (obviously) right next to your car!
Southern Region, Bob Marley Crag
The directions are nearly the same as for Drive By Crag.
From the unremarkable fork (see Drive By description) drive about
and using your GPS make a right on a steep road at
N 37o 38' 54.9'' - W 83o 43' 27.7''
CXX034 , park at
N 37o 39' 4.6'' - W 83o 43' 24.5''
Natural Bridge Region, Roadside Crag Parking along KY 11:
N 37o 44' 1.1'' - W 83o 39' 31.2''
CXX039 (this point was not checked).
Natural Bridge Region, Lady Slipper Parking along KY 11:
N 37o 45' 2.5'' - W 83o 39' 49.1''
Gray Branch Region Military Wall and Left Flank Parking along KY 77:
N 39o 15' 0.5'' - W 120o 11' 24.5''
Gray Branch Region, Military Wall Crag:
N 37o 48' 58.0'' - W 83o 40' 5.9''
Gray Branch Region, Left Flank Crag:
N 37o 49' 2.8'' - W 83o 39' 51.7''
CXX042 (this point has a large error).
|USA, Nevada, Las Vegas Area, Limestone Areas
Smaller limestone areas around Las Vegas. Certainly worth a visit if you
are climbing at Red Rocks for a few days. The Test Site is much more scenic
then Urban Crag, but probably requires a 4WD car with good clearance.
Urban Crag, near a climb named "Twilight of a Poser"
N 36o 14' 15.6'' - W 115o 18' 42.0''
CUS023 . From Las Vegas take interstate I15 north to highway
95, take highway 95 north for about
, take Cheyenne exit
west, right on Tenaya, left on Alexander, right on Jensen, park
N 36o 14' 16.2'' - W 115o 18' 34.4''
) and walk up to the nearby crag. This area is small and ... urban. South of that
area, up and pass a ridge, there is a radically overhanging cave, I have
no information on the few bolted (and obviously very hard) climbs there.
Test Site Area 51, at the top of the trail near the East Test Site
N 36o 16' 38.1'' - W 115o 24' 50.4''
CUS025 altitude about
. From Las Vegas take interstate I15 north to highway 95 north, turn west on highway 157 at
N 35o 19' 37.8'' - W 115o 18' 44.2''
CUS026 (towards famous Mt Charleston), drive about
on highway 157, turn left on a hard to see one lane loose
dirt road at
N 36o 17' 7.3'' - W 115o 26' 10.2''
CUS027 , drive down (4WD recommended) into
a large wash to
N 36o 16' 56.5'' - W 115o 25' 53.0''
CUS028 , drive north-east down (or walk)
the 4WD loose rocky wash for
N 36o 17' 3.2'' - W 115o 24' 50.5''
CUS029 and park, the nice looking crag should now be obvious, walk up heading
South-South-East about 20 minutes along a smaller wash with no obvious
trail until you see a cairn in the middle of the wash, leave the wash to
the left for a barely marked trail with cairns leading to the obvious crag.
This is a scenic canyon with short but high quality limestone.
|USA, Nevada, Las Vegas Area, Red Rocks
A large sandstone climbing area nearby (west of) the city of Las Vegas.
Most of the sport climbs are accessed from the loop road (First pullout,
Second pullout or Sandstone Quarry).
From interstate I15 in Las Vegas take Charleston Blvd. west to Route
159. For the First pullout, Second pullout or Sandstone Quarry areas enter
the one way "Loop Road" next to the Red Rocks Conservation Area Park (fee).
Calico Basin has a different approach.
First Pullout Area Parking
N 36o 8' 45.4'' - W 115o 25' 48.9''
CUS030 Note that
if you count the pullouts, you will not need the coordinates of the parking.
Second Pullout Area Parking
N 36o 9' 5.7'' - W 115o 26' 13.6''
Second Pullout Area (park at second pullout). A flat valley about
a 100 meters south of Sweet Pain wall and south-west of The Black
N 36o 9' 24.0'' - W 115o 26' 12.0''
CUS032 (altitude around
Second Pullout Area (park at second pullout), The Gallery,
N 36o 9' 24.7'' - W 115o 26' 19.2''
CUS033 . A very popular area. From the parking go down the
trail ... and try to find the easiest (not so obvious) scramble to the
Gallery. It helps to keep going left and up.
Second Pullout Area, Dog Wall,
N 36o 8' 52.3'' - W 115o 25' 43.9''
CUS034 , From the parking head
35 o true
to the base of a wall
bellow the parking altitude.
Sandstone Quarry Area Parking
N 36o 9' 43.8'' - W 115o 26' 59.9''
CUS035 (this is the 3rd pullout).
Sandstone Quarry Area, Holiday Wall
. From the parking walk in the wide main wash to a narrow side wash with pebbles at
N 36o 10' 0.2'' - W 115o 26' 56.9''
CUS036 . Follow the good trails leading to Holiday Wall at
N 36o 9' 46.5'' - W 115o 26' 29.1''
Sandstone Quarry Area, Running Man Wall
. From the parking walk head back towards the visitor center along a small path parallel to the
86 o true
and walk down to a mushroom shaped boulder at
N 36o 9' 37.0'' - W 115o 26' 44.8''
CUS038 . Cross the wash and climb the slabs to
Running Man at
N 36o 9' 36.7'' - W 115o 20' 32.0''
CUS039 . The altitude is the same as the parking altitude according to my altimeter. The altitude
Calico Basin, Kraft Rocks and Kraft Boulders parking area:
N 36o 9' 34.8'' - W 115o 25' 5.4''
CUS040 . This parking is not so obvious to find, refer to the
guide book and use the coordinates. In February 1999 new unfriendly signs
discouraged parking there.
Calico Basin, Sunny and Steep (park at Kraft Rocks, go around Kraft
Rock by first heading east and then towards Sunny and Steep):
N 36o 10' 9.6'' - W 115o 25' 25.8''
|USA, New Mexico, Diablo Canyon
Basalt cliffs near the city of Santa Fe with both sport and trad climbing.
The area is pretty and has multiple walls.
From down town
Santa Fe go north on San Francis Drive (highway 285) for less then
and exit on 599 south at
N 35o 42' 33.8'' - W 105o 56' 27.8''
CUSX90 . Drive and exit on Camino La Tierra heading north-west near
N 35o 43' 2.2'' - W 106o 1' 26.2''
CUSX91 . I recommend that you also consult an interactive map by clicking on the
last waypoint as the area is confusing.
Drive pass the end of the pavement at
N 35o 43' 31.1'' - W 106o 2' 47.3''
CUSX92 . Now you have about
of relatively good dirt road to drive with out much forks.
Drive pass Dead Dog well at
N 35o 44' 57.3'' - W 106o 6' 9.1''
CUSX93 . As you see the crags make a left and go through a decaying cattle gate
into a wash at
N 35o 48' 13.4'' - W 106o 8' 6.5''
CUSX94 (best for 4WD?). Drive near to the Winter Wall at
N 35o 48' 18.9'' - W 106o 8' 21.7''
|USA, New Mexico, Enchanted Tower
Great steep sport climbs on volcanic tuff in the high desert. The area is
small, but the routes are nearly all of exceptional quality. The shortest
access road (by far) crosses a private ranch. In October 2001 that road was
closed with a locked gate. For access contact the
Access Fund in Boulder Colorado
and follow their instructions.
From the city of Albuquerque drive south on interstate 25 for about
and turn west on highway 60, drive
to the very small town of Datil, stay on hwy 60 for an other
pass the main intersection in Datil and make a right on a private dirt road
just before mile marker 72 at
N 34o 11' 59.5'' - W 107o 54' 23.0''
CXX050 , after
make a left just before the ranch through a gate with a sign that says
"primitive road" (you might have to unlock the gate, see above), drive an other
to the Enchanted Tower parking at
N 34o 13' 49.6'' - W 107o 55' 2.3''
CXX051 . The Tower is obvious from the parking.
|USA, New Mexico, Los Alamos area - Hot Springs
N 35o 49' 20.8'' - W 106o 37' 41.6''
CUS042 Mc Cauley Hot Springs. This is a great
hot spring at the end of a hike in the woods. There is two ponds. The water
temperature is mild. Park at Battleship Rock picnic grounds at
N 35o 49' 41.6'' - W 106o 38' 42.0''
CUS043 . This parking area is about 4miles north of the
town of Jemez Springs on NM4. Follow trail 137 markers that starts by following
the river upstream. After a while the trail markers vanish. There is a
few bolts and pitons on Battleship rock, I do not know if it is climbed
N 35o 50' 58.4'' - W 106o 37' 18.5''
CUS044 Spence Hot Springs. This is a fantastic
hot spring in the woods, a very short walk from the parking. A least four
ponds, from real hot to warm. Park in large Dirt pullout at
N 35o 50' 58.0'' - W 106o 37' 54.5''
CUS045 . This pullout is about
north of the town
of Jemez Springs on NM4. A well marked trail leaves from the south side
(i.e. downhill side along the road) of the pullout, take the sturdy bridge
to cross the river.
|USA, New Mexico, Taos area - Hot Springs
N 36o 30' 28.3'' - W 105o 43' 30.6''
CUS046 Stagecoach Hot Spring. From Taos drive
north on road NM64 and drive to Taos airport. Drive
west, turn right on dirt road, drive
and park at
N 36o 30' 44.1'' - W 105o 43' 3.7''
CUS047 , parking is on the left after a hill. Walk down to
the river and the springs along a path. This hot spring appeared in the
great cult movie "Easy Rider". A GPS might be very useful to find the parking.
Many sport routes (not always closely bolted) on tuff (and also basalt)
North of the city of Bend in central Oregon. From the city of Redmont
drive north on 97, turn east on B avenue and follow signs to Smith Rock
Smith Rock State Park day use area, park there for most climbs,
N 44o 21' 57.5'' - W 121o 8' 4.7''
CUS048 . For most climbs walk from here down to the Foot Bridge.
Foot Bridge on Crooked River
N 44o 22' 7.1'' - W 121o 8' 22.9''
CUS049 . The altitude is about
. Cross the bridge and head down stream (south)
along the river for most climbs.
N 44o 21' 55.0'' - W 121o 8' 50.5''
CUS050 . This path is used to access
the areas on the west side of the rocks, some easy unprotected climbing
moves are required.
N 44o 22' 1.1'' - W 121o 8' 38.9''
CUS051 A popular place with a short
approach. Near the climb named Gumby 10b.
Mesa Verde Wall
N 44o 22' 7.3'' - W 121o 8' 39.3''
CUS052 A very popular place
on the west side of the monument. Near the climb named Bad Moon Rising 11a.
Upper Gorge, Middle Earth Area
N 44o 21' 51.2'' - W 121o 7' 37.4''
CUS053 Near a climb named E-Type Jag 5.11a. This is a great basalt area with many sport
climbs on monolithic columns. Getting to this area will require some longer
and not so obvious hiking, your GPS will help. After Crossing the "Foot
Bridge on Crooked River" (see above) head upstream (north) along the river
to a trail register at
N 44o 21' 55.0'' - W 121o 8' 50.5''
CUS054 . From the trail register
head uphill (north) picking the main path to a wide irrigation ditch at
N 44o 22' 18.4'' - W 121o 7' 50.3''
CUS055 . Note that if you take the south trail from
the trail register you will probably get to an other basalt area: the Student
Wall. Walk down stream along the irrigation ditch (heading south). Walk
along the lower of the two dirt roads that are parallel to the ditch to
a unremarkable point at
N 44o 22' 3.5'' - W 121o 7' 41.5''
CUS056 . From this unremarkable
point a barely marked dirt road that becomes a trail heads south-south-east
in the short brush. Follow this trail to the rim of the gorge at
N 44o 21' 54.1'' - W 121o 7' 41.8''
CUS057 . From the rim head down and south-east to the bottom of
the gorge, this is a steep and insecure scramble without an obvious path.
From the bottom of the gorge you can head upstream to Middle Earth and
E-Tag Jag or down stream to the Red Columns.
|USA, Pennsylvania, Haycock Mountain
The Haycock area is a climbing gem waiting to be fully realized. The area consists
of granite boulders spread out over several miles of trails. There are over 100
established boulder problems and many more to be discovered. From the parking lot follow
the trail, the boulders are all around. The trail does not loop and it's easy to
Haycock Parking Area:
N 40o 29' 30.1'' - W 75o 12' 24.7''
Information provided by an anonymous contributor.
|USA, Pennsylvania, Ralph Stover State Park
The climbing area is known as
High Rocks or Tohickon Gorge and has over 100 routes. It is popular for
spectacular views and geological features including a 200-foot sheer rock face.
Most climbs can be top roped as well as lead and there is some bouldering.
From the parking cross
the street and follow the trail for 100 yards to the top of the cliffs. There
is a trail that runs top of the cliffs and a trail that runs at the bottom.
Ralph Stover Parking Area:
N 40o 26' 28.2'' - W 75o 6' 2.2''
Information provided by an anonymous contributor.
|USA, South Dakota, Mt. Rushmore
The Mt. Rushmore climbing area is located just south of Rapid City
off Interstate 90 to highway 16. Climbing is allowed anywhere in the park
except the clearly marked area of the presidents faces and areas where the climbers
are clearly visible from the road. The rock is pegmatite granite with few
protection placements available. Most of the climbs are sport routes with
rap anchors at the top, but the shiny granite can make spotting the bolts
from the ground a tricky business. Guide books are available at the visitor's
book store at the Rushmore Memorial. The nearby Needles area is on the same
rock type, but with more trad climbing available.
N 43o 52' 59.0'' - W 103o 27' 49.1''
CUSX60 is the location of one pull-off (out of
many) along the highway. The register book and map of the area is located
to the East and is visible from the road here. From this point there
are trails in 3 directions to climbs within 100 yards or less making
for an easy approach.
This information was provided by James Lee of Oklahoma.
|USA, Utah, Salt Lake Area, American Fork
Steep limestone climbs in a canyon south of Salt Lake City north of the
city of Provo. The narrow canyon makes GPS measurements difficult at times!
From Salt Lake City drive south on I5, take exit 287 and drive east
on highway 92.
N 40o 26' 57.2'' - W 111o 40' 29.2''
CUS059 (not a very precise point).
If you are staying at Little Mill Campground, you can walk to this wall
from your tent.
Hell Cave Parking
N 40o 26' 43.5'' - W 111o 41' 35.6''
CUS060 . The long pullout is
on the right side as you head north (going up the canyon). The dirt trail
starts uphill on the west side of the road at the south end of the pullout.
A short walk leads to the famous radically overhanging "hard men" cave.
Hideaway (left side of wall)
N 40o 26' 35.9'' - W 111o 42' 8.3''
CUS061 . I do not
have the coordinates of the parking. The parking area is not directly under
the wall, but somewhat down the canyon. The Hideaway has numerous bolted
5.10's and 5.11's.
|USA, Utah, Salt Lake Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon
From Salt Lake City on freeway 15 turn west on highway 215, take exit 6
following signs to Solitude ski area, make a left on Fort Union Blvd and
drive up the canyon to the climbing areas:
S Curve parking
N 37o 47' 20.5'' - W 122o 19' 14.1''
CUS062 . This is a paved parking
area inside a sharp right turn. A trail that starts in the parking leads
to the cliffs that are visible above the parking.
|USA, Utah, Salt Lake Area, Logan Canyon
Sport climbs on high quality limestone in a scenic canyon. Climbs from
vertical to radically overhanging. The bolting is of good quality.
The city of Logan is about
north of Salt Lake City (the drive from Salt Lake is about
). The climbs are on both side
of Logan Canyon along highway 89 a few minutes east of the city of Logan.
The parking areas are easy to find using highway 89 mile markers. The following
directions assume that you are driving east (up) the canyon.
Fucoidal Quartzite parking. Obvious at mile 383.2 on highway 89. The parking is at
N 41o 46' 44.9'' - W 111o 38' 35.5''
CUS063 . The climbs are right next to the parking.
This is a good place to start your visit of Logan Canyon.
Betagraph climbs. The climbers trail starts at mile 385.65 on highway 89 at
N 41o 48' 19.4'' - W 111o 37' 49.0''
CUS064 just after a concrete bridge. The trail starts
on the left side of the road and heads down stream along the river (south)
and then climbs to the Betagraph at
N 41o 48' 6.3'' - W 111o 38' 7.9''
CUS065 . An other
climbers trail starts a little further after the same bridge also on the
left and heads up a pile of loose rocks to the Rodent Ranch climbs at
N 41o 48' 21.9'' - W 111o 37' 52.1''
Fun sport routes on cobble stones.
From Salt Lake City Utah go south on interstate I15 and take exit 225 to highway 132 east bound.
Drive to the town of Fountain Green and make a right on 400 South at
N 39o 37' 21.7'' - W 111o 38' 4.0''
CUS067 (follow Maple Canyon sign). Drive
and turn right on Freedom road (heading NNW true) at
N 39o 30' 51.2'' - W 111o 37' 53.6''
CUS068 . After
make a right. Continue along the small road to Maple Canyon.
The Box Canyon pullout is at
N 39o 33' 18.5'' - W 111o 40' 30.5''
The pullout for Zen Garden, the Minimum Wall, Cragmont, Pipe Dreams (and
other crags) is pass the campground at
N 39o 33' 38.4'' - W 111o 41' 15.4''
CUS070 ). To hit these crags
from the pullout heading north-west on a small path.
Just after passing close to Minimum Crag on the left make a right
at a fork at
N 40o 13' 45.7'' - W 111o 41' 26.9''
CUSX71 . Walk to Zen Garden nearby at
N 39o 33' 46.4'' - W 111o 41' 26.8''
CUSX72 . Cragmont is at
N 39o 33' 53.5'' - W 111o 41' 28.2''
For Pipe Dreams do not make a right at fork near Minimum Crag and keep heading up
canyon to a fantastic huge cave. No coordinates yet.
|USA, Utah, St George Area, Welcome Springs
A lot of limestone! Varied climbing including radical caves in a remote area.
From St George take route 91 west for
and turn right on a dirt road at
N 37o 3' 54.4'' - W 113o 53' 19.7''
CUS100 . Drive about
and make a right turn at
N 37o 4' 18.5'' - W 113o 55' 8.9''
CUS101 . Drive about
again and park near corrals in a wash at
N 37o 5' 49.1'' - W 113o 54' 39.6''
CUS102 . Follow the wash to a cottonwood tree at
N 37o 5' 48.0'' - W 113o 54' 22.1''
CUS103 . The wash forks, take the left fork heading
16 o true
. Keep walking in the wash, soon you will see on your right Logan Crag at
N 37o 5' 49.4'' - W 113o 54' 17.5''
CUS104 . Further in the wash on the left you will see the larger Sumo Wall that is located at
N 37o 5' 56.9'' - W 113o 54' 15.9''
CUS105 . Walk further in the wash to the start of the trail for The Cathedral at
N 37o 6' 6.8'' - W 113o 54' 3.1''
CUS106 . The trail heads up and right to The Cathedral located near
N 37o 6' 4.2'' - W 113o 53' 55.4''
CUS107 . The Cathedral is a fantastic overhanging cave in a beautiful remote area; the cave becomes apparent as you walk up.
|USA, West Virginia, Summersville Lake
Just 20 minutes north of New River Gorge, Summersville Lake offers great
sport climbing in the 5.10 to 5.12 range with a few 13's. The cliffs are
next to the lake and it is always fun to go for a swim a cool off on hot
days. Although climbable all year long, the best times to climb here is
Spring and Fall.
From points north and south, take State Route 19 towards Summersville Lake.
The parking area is located just past the north side of the Gauley River bridge at
N 38o 14' 46.1'' - W 80o 51' 23.3''
CUSX74 . Follow the obvious trail up the hill, bear left at the split and follow the
trail to the ladder. The Coliseum and Perrot Wall are to the left. All other
climbs are to the right.
Steep climbing all in the 5.12 to 5.13 range at
N 38o 14' 29.7'' - W 80o 50' 45.2''
Short vertical wall. All 5.10's with one 11 at
N 38o 14' 30.7'' - W 80o 50' 43.9''
DC (Memorial) Boulder:
Short climbs from 5.9 - 5.13 at
N 38o 14' 31.0'' - W 80o 50' 40.2''
Vertical 5.10's and 11's at
N 38o 14' 28.9'' - W 80o 50' 37.2''
The Roof (Narcissus Cave):
Steep 5.12's and 13's at
N 38o 14' 31.3'' - W 80o 50' 27.9''
Orange Oswald Wall:
5.9's and 10's at
N 38o 14' 32.0'' - W 80o 50' 24.1''
This information was provided by Chad Keener.
|USA, Wisconsin, Devil's Lake
Trad climbing area with many climbs rated 5.7 to 5.12, from
Devil's Lake Park is
south of Baraboo, Wisconsin. Barabooo is approximately
northwest of Madison, Wisconsin. The parking lot is located along South
Lake Road in the park.
From the parking at
N 43o 24' 38.1'' - W 89o 42' 41.3''
CUSX81 take the CCC (Cilvilian Conservation Corps) trail towards the East Bluff.
Head north half way up the bluff and then west to a crag (one of many) at
N 43o 24' 48.6'' - W 89o 42' 59.0''
This information was provided by Ken Braband.
|USA, Wyoming, Devil's tower
Mainly trad crack climbing on hard volcanic rock columns. The tower is
an incredible sight.
The Tower is in the very north-east corner of the square shaped Wyoming
state. Simply park at the visitor's center of the National Monument.
Visitor Center Long Term Parking, park there for all climbs,
N 44o 35' 30.8'' - W 104o 42' 52.7''
CUS072 . The altitude is about
Devil's Tower's North Face, New Wave route 10a,
N 44o 35' 30.8'' - W 104o 42' 52.7''
Devil's Tower West Face, One Way Sunset 10b,
N 44o 35' 27.7'' - W 104o 42' 54.9''
Devil's Tower East Face, El Cracko Diablo 5.8 (hard 5.8!),
N 44o 35' 24.8'' - W 104o 42' 56.5''
|USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Baldwin Creek
This is a big horn Dolomite cliff near Lander with mainly harder climbs.
Access requires a sturdy 4 wheel drive with high clearance or (better) an "ATV - 4 wheeler".
Roads are closed to all traffic in winter. From the town of Lander take Baldwin Creek road west
and make a right on unpaved Shoshone Lake road. After
stay right at
N 42o 49' 46.4'' - W 108o 51' 2.3''
CUS085 . Follow Shoshone Lake road up pass an ATV parking
area at the top of a hill at
N 42o 49' 54.5'' - W 108o 53' 29.5''
CUS086 . From that point the road gets much worse. Keep going straight pass the
ATV parking. Drive and park along the road at
N 42o 48' 27.5'' - W 108o 55' 32.6''
CUS087 . Walk a short distance to a small red dirt trail leaving on the left side of the
road (heading south) at
N 42o 48' 23.7'' - W 108o 55' 37.3''
CUS088 . Walk in the forest following the trail and go over a barb wire fence at
N 42o 48' 3.5'' - W 108o 55' 5.9''
CUS089 . Walk to a small red rock pile in a meadow at
N 42o 47' 56.4'' - W 108o 55' 0.5''
CUS090 . Just after the red rock pile the faint trail drops down a break in the cliffs.
As you proceed down the break in the cliffs, keep left at
N 42o 47' 50.3'' - W 108o 55' 3.2''
CUS091 . Once at the base of the cliffs head left (east) along the base to reach the climbing area.
The route "Gimmie Shelter" is at
N 42o 47' 46.5'' - W 108o 54' 46.8''
|USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Fossil Hill
This is a big horn Dolomite cliff near Lander that is much less traveled
then Wild Iris or Sinks Canyon. From the town of Lander take Highway 113 heading south-west
to Sinks Canyon. Drive up the whole canyon. Make a left (you have no other
option) on the unpaved Loop Road FS 300 (this left turn is near Bruce's
parking). Drive up the windy road
up from Bruce's parking (altimeter) and park on the left in a large
open sloping meadow at
altitude (altimeter). A stunning rock prow is visible from the
parking. A faint climber trail crosses the meadow and leads to the
Main Area (go over a fence). To go to the
Prow With a View head strait
up to it climbing a very steep meadow.
Friends of the author and the author have established two routes on the
Prow With A View
N 42o 42' 50.2'' - W 108o 51' 1.7''
CUS076 The altitude is about
. Most climbs are 5.11 and harder.
Prow With A View,
N 42o 42' 53.3'' - W 108o 51' 8.7''
CUS077 The altitude is
|USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Sinks Canyon Area
This large climbing area in a canyon is a mix of limestone (big horn Dolomite),
sandstone and granite. Most of the sport routes are on limestone. The Main
Wall has great and well protected sport climbs. Killer Cave is an impressive
large overhanging cave with many hard climbs. Sinks Canyon is definitively
worth a trip.
Sinks Canyon is about
south-west of the town of Lander.
Dennis Vandenbos and the author have established new routes on the
south-east or "shady" side of the canyon:
Parking area for the Main Wall in Sinks Canyon Park. The parking area is about
south-west from Lander on state route 131.
If you are driving up the canyon from Lander the parking is just pass a
cattle gate on the right side of the road at
N 42o 44' 19.6'' - W 108o 49' 58.4''
CUS078 . The altitude is about
. A trail leads to Killer cave. Somewhat
up along the road from the parking an other trail leads to the left side
of the Main Wall.
Main Wall, about 50m left of Killer Cave, next to Brown Trout
N 42o 44' 28.6'' - W 108o 49' 54.8''
Main Wall, far right, next to Girls Way 10a,
N 42o 44' 30.5'' - W 108o 49' 50.2''
Heavy Metal Rock Band
|USA, Wyoming, Lander Area, Wild Iris
A large number of great and well protected sport climbs on white limestone
in a unspoiled and scenic mountain setting.
Wild Iris is south of the town of Lander. From Lander drive south-east
on highway 26, make a right on Limestone
Mountain Road (no pavement), make a right at fork after about
, park in parking lot (see coordinates).
N 42o 34' 35.7'' - W 108o 43' 13.3''
CUS081 this is the place to park
for practically all Wild Iris climbs, you can park a little closer, but
not much, if you are heading to OK Corral.
Far left side of 5.10 Wall (the far west side of the wall)
N 42o 35' 2.9'' - W 108o 44' 5.0''
OK Coral, Tribal War 11b,
N 42o 34' 26.8'' - W 108o 43' 4.3''
Rode Hard Wall, Wind & Rattlesnakes 12a,
N 42o 35' 5.3'' - W 108o 44' 3.6''
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