Europe

A main sport climbing area in Belgium called by locals "Rocher de Neviau". About a 100 routes, many multi pitch on Limestone.

From the city of Namur drive to Jambes. From Jambes head towards Dinant. Dave is on the right side of the river Meuse/Mass (looking down stream). After about 5.0 Km the crag will be on the left near the road. Park at: N 50^o 25' 37.4'' - E 4^o 42' 18.8'' CEU001

This information was provided by Maarten, check out his web site: Maarten World: Climbing, Canyoning and more

There is a large number of separate limestone sport climbing areas in this very scenic and charming region of France. In my opinion none of the climbing areas that follow are "first class" compared to other better known French areas. The rock is mostly less then vertical and many moderate sport climbs can be found. Many more climbing areas in Ardeche can be visited, some are known to have radical overhangs and stalactites.

A few separate climbing areas:

• Chaulet Plage, by a climb named "La Prehension" 6b. The climb is on very polished and slick limestone. This point is just along the river. N 44^o 24' 30.1'' - E 4^o 12' 33.8'' CEU002
• Le Jardin d'Endieu parking, N 44^o 24' 0.1'' - E 4^o 11' 48.0'' CEU003
• Le Jardin d'Endieu, by a climb named "Merci Mr. Dulfer" 6a, N 44^o 24' 8.6'' - E 4^o 11' 37.3'' CEU004 .
• Salavas Fontgranide parking, N 44^o 23' 45.4'' - E 4^o 21' 52.1'' CEU005 . The routes can be seen up and east of the parking area.
• Saint Montant parking, N 44^o 26' 27.2'' - E 4^o 37' 11.6'' CEU006 . The climbs are nearby, behind the ruins. The village is worth a visit!

A large number of great and mostly well protected sport climbs on white/gray limestone in a very scenic region of Provence in South of France (Luberon region in Vaucluse department, North of Marseilles, near Apt). The climbs are in a canyon surrounded by old French villages and vineyards.

From the town Apt drive south pass the small village of Buoux. After 1.5 Km you make a left, in the middle of a hairpin right turn, on a small road that leads to "Auberge des Seguins". Drive to the main parking area.

• Main Parking Area the parking area is easy to find, its a little pass the summer camp, anyway the coordinates are: N 43^o 49' 12.8'' - E 5^o 22' 53.5'' CEU007
• The start of the path (not so easy to find) is along the road to "Auberge des Seguins" by the "Colonie de vacances" (=summer camp) N 43^o 49' 15.4'' - E 5^o 22' 46.0'' CEU008 The steep dirt path heads North and down towards the stream. Painted blue crosses mark the path. Head upstream until you find a good bridge made with some concrete and wood planks.
• The bridge is at N 43^o 49' 17.9'' - E 5^o 22' 49.6'' CEU009
• Route Vieux Debrits 7a, secteur 22 in Buoux 1991 guide book, N 43^o 49' 13.1'' - E 5^o 22' 46.2'' CEU010 You will not need these coordinates as the names of many routes are painted on the rock. (Route "Le Pere Noel est une Ordure" 6c, is painted next to these coordinates, Vieux Debrit's name is not painted).

A rather short stretch of excellent limestone cliffs with many great steep climbs of different difficulties. The very strong glued bolts tend to be far apart at times (especially in easier parts of the climbs). Some routes are equipped with dangerously high first bolts. The climbs are of exceptional quality and deserve the numerous stars given in the guide book that can be bough at the Auberge that is near city hall ("Mairie") in Chateau Vert.

Chateau Vert is north of Toulon, east of Marseilles and north of the small town of Brignoles in the South of France. The actual climbing happens on one side of the scenic canyon of "Vallon Sourn" that is between the villages of Chateau Vert and Correns. All the other great cliffs nearby are not climbed.

• Parking along the road near the "Diktateur" area of the "Grande Face" N 43^o 29' 36.2'' - E 6^o 2' 38.5'' CEU011 the cliff is right there!

A large overhanging limestone cliff near and to the north-west of the city of Toulon in South of France.

From Toulon drive to the village of Saint Anne d'Evenos and take road D62 that goes to the old village of Evenos. Park along the road. Cimai is supposed to have close bolts.

• Parking and start of dirt path leading to the cliff N 43^o 10' 34.9'' - E 5^o 50' 46.0'' CEU012

An overhanging band of limestone of exceptional quality. Most routes are 6c and harder, hard radical overhangs abound. The very strong glued bolts are spaced generously at times, especially higher up in easier parts, but most falls look safe given the overhangs. Quaint villages and vineyards are found all around the area.

The fun guide book is sold in the town of Claret at the Bar near city hall (Mairie). Some climbers stay at the neat but inexpensive "Auberge des Cedres" in the nearby village of Lauret (tel 33 04 67 59 02 02, 33 is for France).

Claret is north of the city of Monpellier and west of he city of Nimes in the South of France. From the small village of Claret drive north-west on road D107 pass de yet smaller village of Embruscalles and park along the road near a small transformer on the left and a concrete house used by the electric company on the right. You will probably not need the GPS coordinates as the cliff is obvious from the road and the names of all the routes are written on the rock.

• Parking N 43^o 52' 12.9'' - E 3^o 52' 7.2'' CEU013 and start of dirt path heading north-west to the obvious cliff.
• Route "Les Miracules du Claret" 6c+, N 43^o 52' 19.0'' - E 3^o 52' 11.9'' CEU014 (you might have a surprise if you climb this route!).

Limestone cliffs above a mountain pass near the city of Cluses, France (East of Geneva, Switzerland).

From Cluses drive south on D4 towards La Clusaz to the mountain pass "Col de la Colombiere" at N 49^o 59' 32.4'' - E 6^o 28' 32.1'' CEU110 and an altitude of 1618 meters . Walk to the cliffs to secteur "Pet au Casque" at N 49^o 59' 40.7'' - E 6^o 28' 6.3'' CEU111 and an altitude of 1813 meters

A large band of vertical limestone. Some multi pitch routes.

• Parking N 44^o 8' 46.6'' - E 5^o 1' 58.9'' CEU015
• Expo System an area with many less then vertical moderate routes about 150 meters above the parking. N 44^o 9' 2.2'' - E 5^o 2' 3.4'' CEU016 .
• Base of a yellow/brown bolted crack leading to more routes: N 44^o 9' 3.4'' - E 5^o 1' 57.4'' CEU917 .

An amazing limestone canyon east of Nice, South of France. Climbs often start with up to six rope lengths of impressive rappels into the huge canyon with vertical walls. Bolts are far apart and a few camming devices and nuts are part of the standard equipment. From the small village of La Pallu on the North side of the canyon, head West and take the "route des Crets".

• Carelle parking N 43^o 46' 29.5'' - E 6^o 22' 59.4'' CEU017 This is one of the main pullouts along the road. Many routes start from or around the railing along the cliff. This is also one of the favored tourist stop. "Warmups" can be found in secteur "Dalle Grises" nearby.

Limestone cliffs near the city of Annecy, France (South of Geneva, Switzerland). The area has many sports climbs, single and multi pitch.

From Annecy drive south on D909 towards Thones. Just after the village of Verrier du Lac turn left and park at the start of a small paved road heading back towards Annecy at N 45^o 52' 21.3'' - E 6^o 11' 8.5'' CEU100 . Walk a short way along the road to a sign "Col de Bluffy, Mt Baret" at N 45^o 52' 28.5'' - E 6^o 11' 7.8'' CEU101 and walk up a wide dirt path. At a fork higher up take the steeper path on the left (red marks). At the end of the path you find "Dalle Rousse" at N 45^o 52' 26.9'' - E 6^o 11' 27.7'' CEU102

Great well protected limestone cliffs above a scenic horseshoe bend of a river. The climbs are from vertical to radical overhangs on stalagmites. This is really a great place. Russan is near the town of Nimes in the South of France.

From the town of Nimes in the South of France take road N106 towards Ales, make a right on road D22 towards Dions and St Anastasie, after about 4.0 Km make a right on road D618 towards Russan, after about 1.0 Km of narrow road you will enter the confusing village of St Anastasie, make a left in the village to the square "Place de l' Eglise" and then an other left to the main town square "Place de la Fontaine", from the main square take "avenue des Sept", make a right at N 43^o 56' 13.7'' - E 4^o 19' 23.1'' CEU018 on "Rue du Castelas" (there is no street sign at that turn but a sign at that says "Site le Castelas"), follow signs toward "Group Scolaire" and "Castelas". At one point you have the choice between signs to "Group Scolaire" and "Le Castelas", choose "Le Castelas". At one point make a sharp left and the pavement ends, you are at N 43^o 56' 8.2'' - E 4^o 19' 37.0'' CEU019 . Follow the decent dirt road (take the most traveled branch of the few forks) to N 43^o 55' 42.6'' - E 4^o 20' 20.2'' CEU020 and park. From the parking walk a faint trail to N 43^o 55' 37.2'' - E 4^o 20' 17.3'' CEU021 (the trail is not obvious from the parking, heading south-west 100 meters at first might help) . You can rappel down in a huge hole (bolts) or (better) walk at the top of the cliffs along faint trail to a place were you can make it down to the bottom of the cliffs (one 4th move) at N 43^o 55' 33.3'' - E 4^o 20' 9.4'' CEU022 . The first climbs are nearby: walk back in the direction of the parking at the bottom of the cliff.

There is also a path to the climbs that heads south-west from the parking.

Great very well protected limestone cliffs above a scenic old French village. The small village of Orpierre is far away from any city, on the map of France its located between Marseilles and Grenoble and north of the town of Sisteron. Some easy and super protected climbs can even be found amongst the harder climbs. The main cliffs are obvious from the square at the center of the village, you will probably not need to use your GPS to find "Falaise du Chateau". Park in the village for most climbs.

• Cliff "Falaise du Chateau", route "La Moulinette Endimanchee" 6a, N 44^o 19' 7.2'' - E 5^o 41' 7.6'' CEU023 Many great routes of varied difficulty are to the right.
• Cliff "Les Blaches Sud Ouest", N 44^o 13' 22.0'' - E 5^o 42' 13.0'' CEU024 This cliff is away from the main cliffs. Park at Adrech parking (do not park in the village). To get to Adrech parking drive a few hundred meters on D30 eastbound out of the village of Orpierre and follow the signs.

Mainly one very overhanging limestone cave with hard routes (7a and above), plus other good routes. The cliffs are just above the small sleepy village of Volx. Volx is not a major destination crag and is probably mainly worth the trip for the cave (la grotte).

The village of Volx is between Toulon and Grenoble, about 15.0 Km south-east of the town of Forcalquier.

• La Grotte N 43^o 52' 55.3'' - E 5^o 50' 9.1'' CEU025 Start with route "Charles de Goal" 7b: a very steep and well protected climb on large holds.

A huge overhanging red conglomerate with short and long routes.

The very small village of Riglos is near the French border, south of the Pirineos mountains, north of the town of Zaragoza and near (south) of the town of Jaca. The obvious huge domes/cliffs are minutes away from the village. There is no camping or housing in Riglos. The guide can be bought at the Hotel Riglos in a small village nearby: Murillo de Galego.

• Parking in the very narrow, steep and uneven street of the town of Riglos N 42^o 20' 57.2'' - W 0^o 43' 37.9'' CEU026 at about 580 meters . The more then obvious cliffs are nearby to the north-west.

Siurana is a scenic tiny village, perched at the top of the cliffs and at the end of a windy road. Only a fraction of the amazing amount of red and white rock surrounding the area seems to be climbed. Siurana has a number of sectors that can be hard to find. In 1997 the guide book could be bought at the Decathlon store west of Tarragona along road N420 (the huge store is visible on the north side of the freeway).

Siurana is in the "Sierra de Prades" north-west of Tarragona, east of Barcelona. Siurana may not be on your road map, go to the village of "Cornudella de Montsant", just north of the village a small road heads east, follow the signs to Siurana.

• Parking just before the village of Siruana N 41^o 15' 31.1'' - E 0^o 56' 8.3'' CEU027 . The area called "Can Melafots" starts on the long wide limestone ledge that starts on the east side of the parking.
• Start of the steep climber's path down from the wide ledge to the isolated pinnacle called "Can Rebotat" N 41^o 15' 31.0'' - E 0^o 56' 21.5'' CEU028 (look for the cairn). This path leads to most climbing areas (most climbing areas are lower then the parking). Proceeding further east along the ledge to join the lower climbing areas is also an option, according to the guide, but is actually a long bush walk.