USA

Many great well protected short sport climbs in an isolated canyon East of Flagstaff.

From the city of Winslow take road 87 south to N 34^o 44' 34.2'' - W 111^o 3' 10.2'' CUS001 and make a right turn (through a gate) onto a small and easy to miss dirt road. Follow the main dirt road (avoid turning right at the first fork after about 0.2 sm and drive to the parking/camping area at N 34^o 45' 18.4'' - W 111^o 3' 42.8'' CUS002 . Camping is free and unimproved. From the parking follow the well marked trail lined by white rocks on both side to the crags.

• Walk to N 34^o 45' 20.1'' - W 111^o 3' 47.3'' CUS004 where the well marked trail starts down the canyon. You will soon see Casino cliffs on the other side of the Canyon.

North of the city of Tucson. Only the coordinates to the Outback are available for now.

• Outback Area parking N 32^o 23' 16.7'' - W 110^o 41' 43.0'' CUS005 (for start of trail go up a few yards to next pullout, trail starts uphill on the right side of Mt Lemmon highway, assuming that you are heading up the mountain).
• N 32^o 23' 17.5'' - W 110^o 41' 29.7'' CUS006 point along the trail to the Outback, as the trail forks, make a right and follow trail marked by numerous kerns. The trail is hard to follow at times and winds around..
• N 32^o 23' 13.6'' - W 110^o 41' 0.7'' CUS007 Outback Area. Follow fixed ropes down to climbs.

A great area, with many well protected sport routes on limestone.

West of the city of Colorado Springs. North of Canon City. Take highway 9 north (Shelf Road) from Canon City (direction Cripple Creak). Drive pass the end of the pavement, open a gate on the left side of the road, drive a few hundred meters to Sandy Gulch parking and campground (use coordinates).

• Sandy Gulch area parking (and campground) N 38^o 37' 3.3'' - W 105^o 13' 49.0'' CUS008
• Sandy Gulch, a climb called Village Idiot 11a/b on the east side of the gulch N 38^o 37' 17.8'' - W 105^o 13' 49.5'' CUS009 around 6700 feet .
• Gallery Area, Bulge Wall N 38^o 37' 10.5'' - W 105^o 14' 18.5'' CUS010 (not a precise point). Note for the Gallery you can park at Sandy Gulch parking, but you can also park closer with 4WD vehicle.
• Gallery Area, Mural Wall, Tuna Tuna Tuna 11b climb, N 38^o 37' 11.0'' - W 105^o 14' 14.5'' CUS011
• The Bank area parking (and campground). To get to the Bank drive on Shelf Road a short distance pass Sand Gulch and make a left turn on a steep spur road. N 38^o 37' 44.7'' - W 105^o 13' 38.2'' CUS012
• The Bank, Back to the Future wall, Back to the Future climb 11b/c, N 38^o 38' 1.3'' - W 105^o 13' 46.9'' CUS013
• Cactus Cliff. The Access Fund has bought this new cliff. Drive further on Shelf Road and make a left on a steep spur road at mile 11.1 (this milage is an interpolation of Shelf road mile markers) at N 38^o 37' 44.5'' - W 105^o 13' 19.3'' CXX047 . Drive about 0.5 sm to the parking at N 38^o 37' 56.0'' - W 105^o 13' 24.4'' CXX046 . The very nice (but stupidly runout at top) climb Wadsworth Boulevard 10c is at N 38^o 37' 54.6'' - W 105^o 13' 20.1'' CXX045 . You can keep walking a long time along the cliffs and find more and more fun sport climbs. If you walk far enough you will get to "Spiney Ridge" and eventually to "The Gym".

The Garden of the Gods is located near the city of Colorado Springs (less than an hour south of Denver on Interstate 25). Take highway 24 west off of I-25. There are numerous signs and the GPS coordinates are not necessary to locate the area.

N 38^o 52' 43.6'' - W 104^o 52' 10.8'' CUS014 is the Visitor Center where registration is required (located across the highway from the actual climbs). The rocks are mostly sandstone (no climbing allowed in wet weather due to fragile rock). Some climbs are on granite. Most routes are bolted and at one time many of the hardest sport climbs in the country were located here (up to 5.13c), but there are many climbs at all grades. White chalk is strictly forbidden, colored chalk or other drying agents can be approved at the Visitor's Center. There are no overnight or bivouacs in the park, but there is camping at Pike's Peak.

This information was provided by James Lee of Oklahoma.

Hard overhanging well protected sport routes on limestone.

The park is north of the town of Rifle. On I70 take exit 90 (Rifle). Take CO 13 North (direction Meeker) to CO 395 to Rifle Mountain Park.

• Ruckman's Cave parking pullout N 39^o 43' 10.7'' - W 107^o 41' 26.4'' CUS017 , cross the river, walk a few meters and you are in Ruckman's cave. Choss Family Robinson (11d/12a) is on the far left of the cave.
• Rifle Meadows, free camping in a scenic meadow. From the north exit of Rifle Mountain Park drive 1.2 sm on road 825, make a left on road 832 (this road is 0.2 sm pass Spruce picnic grounds), at the first fork make a left on road 833 (towards "Orphan Spring") park in the Meadow at N 39^o 44' 49.6'' - W 107^o 42' 2.5'' CUS018 next to a pond.

A large area with a maze of granite rocks of different size. There is a mix of trad and sport, protection quality varies and sport routes are sometimes far apart. The area is scenic and the camping is great.

• Parking Lot Rock Area parking N 42^o 5' 0.2'' - W 113^o 43' 25.6'' CUS019
• Window Rock West Wall, She Is The Bosh climb 11a/b, N 42^o 5' 5.9'' - W 113^o 43' 23.0'' CUS020 altitude is about 6800 feet park at the Parking Lot Rock Area

A set of great sandstone climbing areas.

From the city of Lexington take interstate I64 eastbound, take exit 98 that puts you on Mountain Parkway, drive 32.0 sm on Mountain Parkway and take exit 33 at N 37^o 47' 50.7'' - W 83^o 42' 13.3'' CXX040 . Now follow the directions to individual climbing areas.

• Southern Region, Motherlode. From exit 33 off ramp (see directions above) turn right (south) on KY 11, drive 14.0 sm and turn right on KY 498 at N 37^o 38' 19.0'' - W 83^o 41' 50.7'' CXX038 , drive 1.2 sm and make a right on a small road at N 37^o 38' 9.5'' - W 83^o 42' 57.8'' CXX031 (the only sign at that turn says Hopewell First Church of God) the pavement will soon end, drive 0.8 sm down a steep section (4WD?) to the Motherlode parking at N 37^o 38' 42.4'' - W 83^o 42' 51.5'' CXX032 . Please email me the coordinate of the crag.
• Southern Region, Drive By Crag. From the Motherlode parking (see directions above) drive 0.3 sm and go strait (do not make a right) at un unremarkable fork at N 37^o 38' 49.9'' - W 83^o 43' 9.7'' CXX037 , from that unremarkable fork drive 0.5 sm and make a sharp right on a steep 4WD road at N 37^o 38' 55.4'' - W 83^o 43' 34.0'' CXX035 (there is many other similar roads nearby, a GPS should help you make the correct turn), drive 0.1 sm and stay right at a fork, drive 0.2 sm to an abandoned oil well and park at N 37^o 39' 10.6'' - W 83^o 43' 30.1'' CXX036 , the Drive By Crag is (obviously) right next to your car!
• Southern Region, Bob Marley Crag The directions are nearly the same as for Drive By Crag. From the unremarkable fork (see Drive By description) drive about 0.4 sm and using your GPS make a right on a steep road at N 37^o 38' 54.9'' - W 83^o 43' 27.7'' CXX034 , park at N 37^o 39' 4.6'' - W 83^o 43' 24.5'' CXX033

• Natural Bridge Region, Roadside Crag Parking along KY 11: N 37^o 44' 1.1'' - W 83^o 39' 31.2'' CXX039 (this point was not checked).
• Natural Bridge Region, Lady Slipper Parking along KY 11: N 37^o 45' 2.5'' - W 83^o 39' 49.1'' CXX044
• Gray Branch Region Military Wall and Left Flank Parking along KY 77: N 39^o 15' 0.5'' - W 120^o 11' 24.5'' CXX043
• Gray Branch Region, Military Wall Crag: N 37^o 48' 58.0'' - W 83^o 40' 5.9'' CXX041
• Gray Branch Region, Left Flank Crag: N 37^o 49' 2.8'' - W 83^o 39' 51.7'' CXX042 (this point has a large error).

Smaller limestone areas around Las Vegas. Certainly worth a visit if you are climbing at Red Rocks for a few days. The Test Site is much more scenic then Urban Crag, but probably requires a 4WD car with good clearance.

• Urban Crag, near a climb named "Twilight of a Poser" N 36^o 14' 15.6'' - W 115^o 18' 42.0'' CUS023 . From Las Vegas take interstate I15 north to highway 95, take highway 95 north for about 7.0 sm , take Cheyenne exit west, right on Tenaya, left on Alexander, right on Jensen, park at N 36^o 14' 16.2'' - W 115^o 18' 34.4'' CUS024 (altitude 2500 feet ) and walk up to the nearby crag. This area is small and ... urban. South of that area, up and pass a ridge, there is a radically overhanging cave, I have no information on the few bolted (and obviously very hard) climbs there.
• Test Site Area 51, at the top of the trail near the East Test Site N 36^o 16' 38.1'' - W 115^o 24' 50.4'' CUS025 altitude about 4550 feet . From Las Vegas take interstate I15 north to highway 95 north, turn west on highway 157 at N 35^o 19' 37.8'' - W 115^o 18' 44.2'' CUS026 (towards famous Mt Charleston), drive about 8.0 sm on highway 157, turn left on a hard to see one lane loose dirt road at N 36^o 17' 7.3'' - W 115^o 26' 10.2'' CUS027 , drive down (4WD recommended) into a large wash to N 36^o 16' 56.5'' - W 115^o 25' 53.0'' CUS028 , drive north-east down (or walk) the 4WD loose rocky wash for 1.5 sm to N 36^o 17' 3.2'' - W 115^o 24' 50.5'' CUS029 and park, the nice looking crag should now be obvious, walk up heading South-South-East about 20 minutes along a smaller wash with no obvious trail until you see a cairn in the middle of the wash, leave the wash to the left for a barely marked trail with cairns leading to the obvious crag. This is a scenic canyon with short but high quality limestone.

A large sandstone climbing area nearby (west of) the city of Las Vegas. Most of the sport climbs are accessed from the loop road (First pullout, Second pullout or Sandstone Quarry).

From interstate I15 in Las Vegas take Charleston Blvd. west to Route 159. For the First pullout, Second pullout or Sandstone Quarry areas enter the one way "Loop Road" next to the Red Rocks Conservation Area Park (fee). Calico Basin has a different approach.

• First Pullout Area Parking N 36^o 8' 45.4'' - W 115^o 25' 48.9'' CUS030 Note that if you count the pullouts, you will not need the coordinates of the parking.
• Second Pullout Area Parking N 36^o 9' 5.7'' - W 115^o 26' 13.6'' CUS031
• Second Pullout Area (park at second pullout). A flat valley about a 100 meters south of Sweet Pain wall and south-west of The Black Corridor: N 36^o 9' 24.0'' - W 115^o 26' 12.0'' CUS032 (altitude around 3900 feet ).
• Second Pullout Area (park at second pullout), The Gallery, N 36^o 9' 24.7'' - W 115^o 26' 19.2'' CUS033 . A very popular area. From the parking go down the trail ... and try to find the easiest (not so obvious) scramble to the Gallery. It helps to keep going left and up.
• Second Pullout Area, Dog Wall, N 36^o 8' 52.3'' - W 115^o 25' 43.9'' CUS034 , From the parking head 35 ^o true to the base of a wall 50 feet bellow the parking altitude.
• Sandstone Quarry Area Parking N 36^o 9' 43.8'' - W 115^o 26' 59.9'' CUS035 (this is the 3rd pullout).
• Sandstone Quarry Area, Holiday Wall . From the parking walk in the wide main wash to a narrow side wash with pebbles at N 36^o 10' 0.2'' - W 115^o 26' 56.9'' CUS036 . Follow the good trails leading to Holiday Wall at N 36^o 9' 46.5'' - W 115^o 26' 29.1'' CUS037
• Sandstone Quarry Area, Running Man Wall . From the parking walk head back towards the visitor center along a small path parallel to the road heading 86 ^o true and walk down to a mushroom shaped boulder at N 36^o 9' 37.0'' - W 115^o 26' 44.8'' CUS038 . Cross the wash and climb the slabs to Running Man at N 36^o 9' 36.7'' - W 115^o 20' 32.0'' CUS039 . The altitude is the same as the parking altitude according to my altimeter. The altitude is about 4300 feet .
• Calico Basin, Kraft Rocks and Kraft Boulders parking area: N 36^o 9' 34.8'' - W 115^o 25' 5.4'' CUS040 . This parking is not so obvious to find, refer to the guide book and use the coordinates. In February 1999 new unfriendly signs discouraged parking there.
• Calico Basin, Sunny and Steep (park at Kraft Rocks, go around Kraft Rock by first heading east and then towards Sunny and Steep): N 36^o 10' 9.6'' - W 115^o 25' 25.8'' CUS041

Basalt cliffs near the city of Santa Fe with both sport and trad climbing. The area is pretty and has multiple walls.

From down town Santa Fe go north on San Francis Drive (highway 285) for less then 2.0 sm and exit on 599 south at N 35^o 42' 33.8'' - W 105^o 56' 27.8'' CUSX90 . Drive and exit on Camino La Tierra heading north-west near N 35^o 43' 2.2'' - W 106^o 1' 26.2'' CUSX91 . I recommend that you also consult an interactive map by clicking on the last waypoint as the area is confusing. Drive pass the end of the pavement at N 35^o 43' 31.1'' - W 106^o 2' 47.3'' CUSX92 . Now you have about 8.0 sm of relatively good dirt road to drive with out much forks. Drive pass Dead Dog well at N 35^o 44' 57.3'' - W 106^o 6' 9.1'' CUSX93 . As you see the crags make a left and go through a decaying cattle gate into a wash at N 35^o 48' 13.4'' - W 106^o 8' 6.5'' CUSX94 (best for 4WD?). Drive near to the Winter Wall at N 35^o 48' 18.9'' - W 106^o 8' 21.7'' CUSX95

Great steep sport climbs on volcanic tuff in the high desert. The area is small, but the routes are nearly all of exceptional quality. The shortest access road (by far) crosses a private ranch. In October 2001 that road was closed with a locked gate. For access contact the Access Fund in Boulder Colorado and follow their instructions.

From the city of Albuquerque drive south on interstate 25 for about 80.0 sm and turn west on highway 60, drive 63.0 sm to the very small town of Datil, stay on hwy 60 for an other 5.2 sm pass the main intersection in Datil and make a right on a private dirt road just before mile marker 72 at N 34^o 11' 59.5'' - W 107^o 54' 23.0'' CXX050 , after 0.8 sm make a left just before the ranch through a gate with a sign that says "primitive road" (you might have to unlock the gate, see above), drive an other 1.7 sm to the Enchanted Tower parking at N 34^o 13' 49.6'' - W 107^o 55' 2.3'' CXX051 . The Tower is obvious from the parking.

Many sport routes (not always closely bolted) on tuff (and also basalt) mainly vertical.

North of the city of Bend in central Oregon. From the city of Redmont drive north on 97, turn east on B avenue and follow signs to Smith Rock State Park.

• Smith Rock State Park day use area, park there for most climbs, N 44^o 21' 57.5'' - W 121^o 8' 4.7'' CUS048 . For most climbs walk from here down to the Foot Bridge.
• Foot Bridge on Crooked River N 44^o 22' 7.1'' - W 121^o 8' 22.9'' CUS049 . The altitude is about 2600 feet . Cross the bridge and head down stream (south) along the river for most climbs.
• Asterix Path N 44^o 21' 55.0'' - W 121^o 8' 50.5'' CUS050 . This path is used to access the areas on the west side of the rocks, some easy unprotected climbing moves are required.
• Zebra Area N 44^o 22' 1.1'' - W 121^o 8' 38.9'' CUS051 A popular place with a short approach. Near the climb named Gumby 10b.
• Mesa Verde Wall N 44^o 22' 7.3'' - W 121^o 8' 39.3'' CUS052 A very popular place on the west side of the monument. Near the climb named Bad Moon Rising 11a.
• Upper Gorge, Middle Earth Area N 44^o 21' 51.2'' - W 121^o 7' 37.4'' CUS053 Near a climb named E-Type Jag 5.11a. This is a great basalt area with many sport climbs on monolithic columns. Getting to this area will require some longer and not so obvious hiking, your GPS will help. After Crossing the "Foot Bridge on Crooked River" (see above) head upstream (north) along the river to a trail register at N 44^o 21' 55.0'' - W 121^o 8' 50.5'' CUS054 . From the trail register head uphill (north) picking the main path to a wide irrigation ditch at N 44^o 22' 18.4'' - W 121^o 7' 50.3'' CUS055 . Note that if you take the south trail from the trail register you will probably get to an other basalt area: the Student Wall. Walk down stream along the irrigation ditch (heading south). Walk along the lower of the two dirt roads that are parallel to the ditch to a unremarkable point at N 44^o 22' 3.5'' - W 121^o 7' 41.5'' CUS056 . From this unremarkable point a barely marked dirt road that becomes a trail heads south-south-east in the short brush. Follow this trail to the rim of the gorge at N 44^o 21' 54.1'' - W 121^o 7' 41.8'' CUS057 . From the rim head down and south-east to the bottom of the gorge, this is a steep and insecure scramble without an obvious path. From the bottom of the gorge you can head upstream to Middle Earth and E-Tag Jag or down stream to the Red Columns.

The Haycock area is a climbing gem waiting to be fully realized. The area consists of granite boulders spread out over several miles of trails. There are over 100 established boulder problems and many more to be discovered. From the parking lot follow the trail, the boulders are all around. The trail does not loop and it's easy to get lost.

• Haycock Parking Area: N 40^o 29' 30.1'' - W 75^o 12' 24.7'' CUSX58 .

Information provided by an anonymous contributor.

The climbing area is known as High Rocks or Tohickon Gorge and has over 100 routes. It is popular for spectacular views and geological features including a 200-foot sheer rock face. Most climbs can be top roped as well as lead and there is some bouldering.

From the parking cross the street and follow the trail for 100 yards to the top of the cliffs. There is a trail that runs top of the cliffs and a trail that runs at the bottom.

• Ralph Stover Parking Area: N 40^o 26' 28.2'' - W 75^o 6' 2.2'' CUSX59 .

Information provided by an anonymous contributor.

The Mt. Rushmore climbing area is located just south of Rapid City off Interstate 90 to highway 16. Climbing is allowed anywhere in the park except the clearly marked area of the presidents faces and areas where the climbers are clearly visible from the road. The rock is pegmatite granite with few protection placements available. Most of the climbs are sport routes with rap anchors at the top, but the shiny granite can make spotting the bolts from the ground a tricky business. Guide books are available at the visitor's book store at the Rushmore Memorial. The nearby Needles area is on the same rock type, but with more trad climbing available.

N 43^o 52' 59.0'' - W 103^o 27' 49.1'' CUSX60 is the location of one pull-off (out of many) along the highway. The register book and map of the area is located to the East and is visible from the road here. From this point there are trails in 3 directions to climbs within 100 yards or less making for an easy approach.

This information was provided by James Lee of Oklahoma.

Steep limestone climbs in a canyon south of Salt Lake City north of the city of Provo. The narrow canyon makes GPS measurements difficult at times!

From Salt Lake City drive south on I5, take exit 287 and drive east on highway 92.

• Division Wall N 40^o 26' 57.2'' - W 111^o 40' 29.2'' CUS059 (not a very precise point). If you are staying at Little Mill Campground, you can walk to this wall from your tent.
• Hell Cave Parking N 40^o 26' 43.5'' - W 111^o 41' 35.6'' CUS060 . The long pullout is on the right side as you head north (going up the canyon). The dirt trail starts uphill on the west side of the road at the south end of the pullout. A short walk leads to the famous radically overhanging "hard men" cave.
• Hideaway (left side of wall) N 40^o 26' 35.9'' - W 111^o 42' 8.3'' CUS061 . I do not have the coordinates of the parking. The parking area is not directly under the wall, but somewhat down the canyon. The Hideaway has numerous bolted 5.10's and 5.11's.

From Salt Lake City on freeway 15 turn west on highway 215, take exit 6 following signs to Solitude ski area, make a left on Fort Union Blvd and drive up the canyon to the climbing areas:

• S Curve parking N 37^o 47' 20.5'' - W 122^o 19' 14.1'' CUS062 . This is a paved parking area inside a sharp right turn. A trail that starts in the parking leads to the cliffs that are visible above the parking.

Sport climbs on high quality limestone in a scenic canyon. Climbs from vertical to radically overhanging. The bolting is of good quality.

The city of Logan is about 60.0 sm north of Salt Lake City (the drive from Salt Lake is about 90.0 sm ). The climbs are on both side of Logan Canyon along highway 89 a few minutes east of the city of Logan. The parking areas are easy to find using highway 89 mile markers. The following directions assume that you are driving east (up) the canyon.

• Fucoidal Quartzite parking. Obvious at mile 383.2 on highway 89. The parking is at N 41^o 46' 44.9'' - W 111^o 38' 35.5'' CUS063 . The climbs are right next to the parking. This is a good place to start your visit of Logan Canyon.
• Betagraph climbs. The climbers trail starts at mile 385.65 on highway 89 at N 41^o 48' 19.4'' - W 111^o 37' 49.0'' CUS064 just after a concrete bridge. The trail starts on the left side of the road and heads down stream along the river (south) and then climbs to the Betagraph at N 41^o 48' 6.3'' - W 111^o 38' 7.9'' CUS065 . An other climbers trail starts a little further after the same bridge also on the left and heads up a pile of loose rocks to the Rodent Ranch climbs at N 41^o 48' 21.9'' - W 111^o 37' 52.1'' CUS066

Fun sport routes on cobble stones.

From Salt Lake City Utah go south on interstate I15 and take exit 225 to highway 132 east bound. Drive to the town of Fountain Green and make a right on 400 South at N 39^o 37' 21.7'' - W 111^o 38' 4.0'' CUS067 (follow Maple Canyon sign). Drive 6.0 sm and turn right on Freedom road (heading NNW true) at N 39^o 30' 51.2'' - W 111^o 37' 53.6'' CUS068 . After 0.5 sm make a right. Continue along the small road to Maple Canyon.

The Box Canyon pullout is at N 39^o 33' 18.5'' - W 111^o 40' 30.5'' CUS069 .

The pullout for Zen Garden, the Minimum Wall, Cragmont, Pipe Dreams (and other crags) is pass the campground at N 39^o 33' 38.4'' - W 111^o 41' 15.4'' CUS070 ). To hit these crags walk 0.2 sm from the pullout heading north-west on a small path. Just after passing close to Minimum Crag on the left make a right at a fork at N 40^o 13' 45.7'' - W 111^o 41' 26.9'' CUSX71 . Walk to Zen Garden nearby at N 39^o 33' 46.4'' - W 111^o 41' 26.8'' CUSX72 . Cragmont is at N 39^o 33' 53.5'' - W 111^o 41' 28.2'' CUSX73 . For Pipe Dreams do not make a right at fork near Minimum Crag and keep heading up canyon to a fantastic huge cave. No coordinates yet.

A lot of limestone! Varied climbing including radical caves in a remote area.

From St George take route 91 west for 10.7 sm and turn right on a dirt road at N 37^o 3' 54.4'' - W 113^o 53' 19.7'' CUS100 . Drive about 2.0 sm and make a right turn at N 37^o 4' 18.5'' - W 113^o 55' 8.9'' CUS101 . Drive about 2.0 sm again and park near corrals in a wash at N 37^o 5' 49.1'' - W 113^o 54' 39.6'' CUS102 . Follow the wash to a cottonwood tree at N 37^o 5' 48.0'' - W 113^o 54' 22.1'' CUS103 . The wash forks, take the left fork heading 16 ^o true . Keep walking in the wash, soon you will see on your right Logan Crag at N 37^o 5' 49.4'' - W 113^o 54' 17.5'' CUS104 . Further in the wash on the left you will see the larger Sumo Wall that is located at N 37^o 5' 56.9'' - W 113^o 54' 15.9'' CUS105 . Walk further in the wash to the start of the trail for The Cathedral at N 37^o 6' 6.8'' - W 113^o 54' 3.1'' CUS106 . The trail heads up and right to The Cathedral located near N 37^o 6' 4.2'' - W 113^o 53' 55.4'' CUS107 . The Cathedral is a fantastic overhanging cave in a beautiful remote area; the cave becomes apparent as you walk up.

Just 20 minutes north of New River Gorge, Summersville Lake offers great sport climbing in the 5.10 to 5.12 range with a few 13's. The cliffs are next to the lake and it is always fun to go for a swim a cool off on hot days. Although climbable all year long, the best times to climb here is Spring and Fall.

From points north and south, take State Route 19 towards Summersville Lake. The parking area is located just past the north side of the Gauley River bridge at N 38^o 14' 46.1'' - W 80^o 51' 23.3'' CUSX74 . Follow the obvious trail up the hill, bear left at the split and follow the trail to the ladder. The Coliseum and Perrot Wall are to the left. All other climbs are to the right.

• Coliseum: Steep climbing all in the 5.12 to 5.13 range at N 38^o 14' 29.7'' - W 80^o 50' 45.2'' CUSX75 .
• Perrot Wall: Short vertical wall. All 5.10's with one 11 at N 38^o 14' 30.7'' - W 80^o 50' 43.9'' CUSX76 .
• DC (Memorial) Boulder: Short climbs from 5.9 - 5.13 at N 38^o 14' 31.0'' - W 80^o 50' 40.2'' CUSX77 .
• Long Wall: Vertical 5.10's and 11's at N 38^o 14' 28.9'' - W 80^o 50' 37.2'' CUSX78 .
• The Roof (Narcissus Cave): Steep 5.12's and 13's at N 38^o 14' 31.3'' - W 80^o 50' 27.9'' CUSX79 .
• Orange Oswald Wall: 5.9's and 10's at N 38^o 14' 32.0'' - W 80^o 50' 24.1'' CUSX80 .

This information was provided by Chad Keener.

Trad climbing area with many climbs rated 5.7 to 5.12, from 30 feet to 100 feet in height.

Devil's Lake Park is approximately 6.0 sm south of Baraboo, Wisconsin. Barabooo is approximately 35.0 sm northwest of Madison, Wisconsin. The parking lot is located along South Lake Road in the park.

From the parking at N 43^o 24' 38.1'' - W 89^o 42' 41.3'' CUSX81 take the CCC (Cilvilian Conservation Corps) trail towards the East Bluff. Head north half way up the bluff and then west to a crag (one of many) at N 43^o 24' 48.6'' - W 89^o 42' 59.0'' CUSX82

This information was provided by Ken Braband.

Mainly trad crack climbing on hard volcanic rock columns. The tower is an incredible sight.

The Tower is in the very north-east corner of the square shaped Wyoming state. Simply park at the visitor's center of the National Monument.

• Visitor Center Long Term Parking, park there for all climbs, N 44^o 35' 30.8'' - W 104^o 42' 52.7'' CUS072 . The altitude is about 4800 feet .
• Devil's Tower's North Face, New Wave route 10a, N 44^o 35' 30.8'' - W 104^o 42' 52.7'' CUS073 .
• Devil's Tower West Face, One Way Sunset 10b, N 44^o 35' 27.7'' - W 104^o 42' 54.9'' CUS074 .
• Devil's Tower East Face, El Cracko Diablo 5.8 (hard 5.8!), N 44^o 35' 24.8'' - W 104^o 42' 56.5'' CUS075 .

This is a big horn Dolomite cliff near Lander with mainly harder climbs. Access requires a sturdy 4 wheel drive with high clearance or (better) an "ATV - 4 wheeler". Roads are closed to all traffic in winter. From the town of Lander take Baldwin Creek road west for 5.5 sm and make a right on unpaved Shoshone Lake road. After 0.9 sm stay right at N 42^o 49' 46.4'' - W 108^o 51' 2.3'' CUS085 . Follow Shoshone Lake road up pass an ATV parking area at the top of a hill at N 42^o 49' 54.5'' - W 108^o 53' 29.5'' CUS086 . From that point the road gets much worse. Keep going straight pass the ATV parking. Drive and park along the road at N 42^o 48' 27.5'' - W 108^o 55' 32.6'' CUS087 . Walk a short distance to a small red dirt trail leaving on the left side of the road (heading south) at N 42^o 48' 23.7'' - W 108^o 55' 37.3'' CUS088 . Walk in the forest following the trail and go over a barb wire fence at N 42^o 48' 3.5'' - W 108^o 55' 5.9'' CUS089 . Walk to a small red rock pile in a meadow at N 42^o 47' 56.4'' - W 108^o 55' 0.5'' CUS090 . Just after the red rock pile the faint trail drops down a break in the cliffs. As you proceed down the break in the cliffs, keep left at N 42^o 47' 50.3'' - W 108^o 55' 3.2'' CUS091 . Once at the base of the cliffs head left (east) along the base to reach the climbing area. The route "Gimmie Shelter" is at N 42^o 47' 46.5'' - W 108^o 54' 46.8'' CUS092

This is a big horn Dolomite cliff near Lander that is much less traveled then Wild Iris or Sinks Canyon. From the town of Lander take Highway 113 heading south-west to Sinks Canyon. Drive up the whole canyon. Make a left (you have no other option) on the unpaved Loop Road FS 300 (this left turn is near Bruce's parking). Drive up the windy road 4.4 sm or 1300 feet up from Bruce's parking (altimeter) and park on the left in a large open sloping meadow at 7000 feet altitude (altimeter). A stunning rock prow is visible from the parking. A faint climber trail crosses the meadow and leads to the Main Area (go over a fence). To go to the Prow With a View head strait up to it climbing a very steep meadow.

• Main Area N 42^o 42' 50.2'' - W 108^o 51' 1.7'' CUS076 The altitude is about 9000 feet . Most climbs are 5.11 and harder.
• Prow With A View, N 42^o 42' 53.3'' - W 108^o 51' 8.7'' CUS077 The altitude is 8800 feet (altimeter).

This large climbing area in a canyon is a mix of limestone (big horn Dolomite), sandstone and granite. Most of the sport routes are on limestone. The Main Wall has great and well protected sport climbs. Killer Cave is an impressive large overhanging cave with many hard climbs. Sinks Canyon is definitively worth a trip.

Sinks Canyon is about 9.0 sm south-west of the town of Lander.

• Parking area for the Main Wall in Sinks Canyon Park. The parking area is about 9.0 sm south-west from Lander on state route 131. If you are driving up the canyon from Lander the parking is just pass a cattle gate on the right side of the road at N 42^o 44' 19.6'' - W 108^o 49' 58.4'' CUS078 . The altitude is about 7000 feet . A trail leads to Killer cave. Somewhat up along the road from the parking an other trail leads to the left side of the Main Wall.
• Main Wall, about 50m left of Killer Cave, next to Brown Trout 11a/b, N 42^o 44' 28.6'' - W 108^o 49' 54.8'' CUS079 .
• Main Wall, far right, next to Girls Way 10a, N 42^o 44' 30.5'' - W 108^o 49' 50.2'' CUS080

A large number of great and well protected sport climbs on white limestone in a unspoiled and scenic mountain setting.

Wild Iris is south of the town of Lander. From Lander drive south-east for about 24.0 sm on highway 26, make a right on Limestone Mountain Road (no pavement), make a right at fork after about 1.3 sm , park in parking lot (see coordinates).

• Parking Lot N 42^o 34' 35.7'' - W 108^o 43' 13.3'' CUS081 this is the place to park for practically all Wild Iris climbs, you can park a little closer, but not much, if you are heading to OK Corral.
• Far left side of 5.10 Wall (the far west side of the wall) N 42^o 35' 2.9'' - W 108^o 44' 5.0'' CUS082
• OK Coral, Tribal War 11b, N 42^o 34' 26.8'' - W 108^o 43' 4.3'' CUS083
• Rode Hard Wall, Wind & Rattlesnakes 12a, N 42^o 35' 5.3'' - W 108^o 44' 3.6'' CUS084 .